Because of having to change out the intake numerous times, and all the gasket material that had fallen into the engine I've changed the oil filter 3 or 4 so I doubt the filter I just took off would have anything in it.

On a side note, you can't get an oil pump gasket by itself that I've been able to find. The only gaskets I found were included with a new oil pump.

 

Is a gasket even required? They are both machined surfaces..... I would be tempted to just by some gasket material, and make one.

Have you opened up your pump, to see what it looks like inside??

 

Some folks swear by the oil pump gasket and others don't. My last replacement oil pump came with the gasket and I used it.

Here are the only oil pump gaskets I've seen available separately - https://www.ebay.com/itm/232617457162

 

Yes, opened it up and everything looks fine. The gasket is still good but just oily.

One of the pumps I got came with a gasket and the other one didn't.

Even a complete gasket kit doesn't come with one. Or at least the Fel-Pro one I used.

The one thing I haven't done yet is to pull the cam out and check the cam bearings. Do I need to pull the cam? I guess since I've got it torn down this far it's not that hard to pull the cam and take a look at the cam bearings. If I need new bearings I'd have to take it to the machine shop to have the new ones installed.

 

I would be interested to see what the cam journals look like.... given what your crank and rod bearings looked like..... I think since you are so close, NOT looking would be a mistake.

 

OK, I've got a appointment with the VA tomorrow so depending on when I get home I'll either pull it tomorrow or Saturday. I just want this nightmare to end Dang Nab It...

 

I went out to the garage for a cigar and decided to yank the cam out while I was out there. Things ARE NOT GOOD... But we now know what the problem is and why I have low oil pressure. Now since I've had all these issues with the valve springs not being correct and the valves binding I might be doing a little SWAG here but since it was the #5 intake valve that kept breaking and it's the #3 & #4 cam bearing that are bad & have spun I'm going to guess it's related. And with the shape of the bearings I'm going to guess that this is where the metal came from.

#3 cam bearing, it's spun & the metal is smashed and looks terrible.



#4 cam bearing, spun also and looks terrible but not as bad as #3.



Cam bearing #2



Cam bearing #5



Cam bearing #1



Looking down the bore.



OK I've never changed cam bearings so is this something I leave for the machine shop or can I do this myself? And do I need special tools to do it with if I attempt to do it myself?

 

You can change cam bearings yourself. You will need a cam bearing installation/removal tool. Lisle Tool and others make them. You 'might' be able to rent the tool at a retail auto parts store. You will also need to replace the cam plug at the rear of the engine when replacing cam bearings. If you're going to have a machine shop thoroughly clean the block, I'd let them install the cam bearings after the block is cleaned and check that the cam slides in and out properly, along with ensuring that the cam bearing oil holes are correctly lined up

 

Looks like it isn't going to matter... I had my positions wrong on the bearings. Bearing #2 & #3 are the ones that are spun. Bearing #4 the block is cracked... I'm going to guess this means the block is FUBAR? So this puts me in a bad position. I'll have to source another block and then have all the machine work done. So I highly doubt I'll be going to Moab in June like I'd planned.

 

That sucks, The crack allowed the cam to spin because the bore is now larger. I doubt anything can be done with it. Even if they weld the cracks the bore is larger. I'm wondering what caused it to crack there. I think it's time to find another block.