Mkay, if that's the case then I guess they aren't TTY, I've never actually looked into it and just went straight to ARP bolts when I rebuilt my engine and used the instructions that came with them.

 

In all reality, that is probably the best plan in any event.....

 

Might not be anything in the manual about NOT reusing the stockhead bolts, but common sense dictates otherwise. I've always read not to on other forums...

Intake bolts can be reused, (12 foot lbs of torque) just use some anti seize.

 

I have read it both ways replace the head bolts or not, when I get conflicting info on bolts it's an ez decision for me I just replace them. It's cheaper in the long run to just replace them now rather than do the job all over and maybe have done other damage to the motor because of reusing old bolts.

Tip: The head bolt holes in the block are blind holes, so do not use any type of lube on the bolts threads, to much and you could hydraulic crack the block around the hole. Also make sure the holes are clean before you install the bolts, IE no dirt or anti freeze in the bolt holes.

Don't do a half job pull the other head and be done with it. Take a wire brush in a hand drill and clean the area between the valves, then get a good light and look for cracks, 1,7,2,8 are the usual ones to crack.

Edit: Unless specified using oil, thread sealant or ? on the bolt threads will give a false TQ reading, so will dirty threads on the bolts and dirty bolt holes.

 

Very well friend, I already took off the other head, went and cleaned the block up, installed the JP double roller timing set, and will be dropping the heads off at the machine shop today. I'm getting a set of the Fel-Pro perma torque severe duty head gaskets with a set of new Fel-Pro head bolts. I don't want to risk ruining anything by reusing the bolts if there's that chance. I have an air compressor to get all the holes cleaned out. I took the softest wife brush cone hooked up to my variable speed angle grinder to clean the block yesterday. Since it was so soft it took a long while to get all the old gasket material off, but I didn't want to cause any uneven spots on the block to prevent a good seal when reinstalling the heads. Everything looked great otherwise, no cracks, damage, no cross combustion, both old head gaskets were in great shape, all the pistons were black, but without carbon buildup, same goes for the heads, and the block had no cracks that I could see. I'm going to rub some blue dye of the block surface to be sure though. The heads looked fine as far as cracks, but I'm going to let the machine shop work their magic and they will find any if there is any to be found. I've done a lot of business with them and the Guy that does all the machine work is very thorough, and kind of a perfectionist like me. lol As for everything else goes, it's all been smooth so far. Aim4squirrels was spot on about the JP set having to have the crank sprocket sanded out. It took me an hour to get it smoothed out so it would slide on and off the crank snout without snagging. I decided to go 4* degrees advanced on the crank which is only 2* on the cam. I didn't want to go crazy since I have 1.7 RR to be installed. I just want to give a big thanks to everyone for all the help everybody has been giving me. I appreciate it very much. Anywho, I will keep updating every so often and I'm sure I will have questions along the way.lol

 

Well I bought the Fe-Pro Permatorque Severe Duty head gaskets and a set of the Fel-Pro the head bolts along with a set of exhaust manifold gaskets. I also had my intake hot tanked after I moded the keg. I lucked out because my keg doesn't have the middle wall. Cutting the runners down still was a chore. Now I'm just waiting on the machine shop to see if they can find any cracks before attempting to extract the broken intake bolt. They said if they are in good condition they are going to go ahead and install new seals, guides, and do a valve job for me for a good price since I'm a "loyal customer ". Let's hope he doesn't break my bank lol

 

Update as of now, heads are in good condition and they will be ready to go on Monday. Hopefully my truck will be up and running in about a week. I will try to put a few pics of this project up as soon as I can.

 

Ok gents, I'm stumped, where can I buy the stock valve cover grommets for the PCV and the breather tube? I have the stock valve covers.

 

Rockauto

PCV Valve / Crankcase Ventilation Grommet STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # GV31

 

Edit: Or what he said ^

Have you not called the dealer? I got my PCV valve and grommet from Dodge for like $15 I think.