Time for a comp test.

Edit: Check all your timing marks make sure all is right,HB to block to dizy to number 1 wire. Any back fire or pop out of the TB?

 

Well the heads are freshly built and the plugs are wet. Compression should be great unless my cam timing is off somehow. This is frustrating. Tons of $ have gone into this and kinda feels like a waste. I'm gonna check to make sure #1 is at tdc compression stroke and that my rotor is pointing in the correct position.

 

Need to check and verify that, and yes do check the rest.

 

[QUOTE=merc225hp;2844131]Need to check and verify that, and yes do check the rest.[/QU

Cam timing was off, 10 of the 16 pushrods were slightly bent. Luckily my valves were still straight. I'm going to get a compression tester tomorrow and make sure all cylinders are good across the board. I went ahead and made sure my distributor was lined up with tdc #1 and it was spot on. I believe I may have advanced the cam too much or something to throw the valve timing off like it was. Its on point now though. I did 6 revolutions by hand and tdc #1 marks on my timing gears always lined up on the top of the compression stroke. I'm not 100% sure how I ****ered this all up but thankful I only damaged the pushrods and not my freshly built heads.

*Lesson learned, I will never buy an adjustable timing set again lol*

 

Sorry to read this! The comp test will tell you what's going on, I will keep my fingers crossed for you, three other people that this happened to had bent valves. The setting of the chain at +4 did not cause this I have run +4 and -4 with no problems. What chain set did you use please.

Edit: When doing the comp test remember to keep it at WOT.

 

I stuck a magnetic level across the tops of the valves and tried to squeeze a feeler gauge in between the valve stem and the base of the level and they were all touching. I figured if some of the valves were bent they might sit lower as they might not properly seat/close. I guess the comp test will tell me 100% though. I removed the TB to free some room up and so I could see the dizy better. I got the JP billet set that Aim4Squirrels recommended. The only thing that I can think of is that I had a brain fart upon first installing it and put the marks lined up for TDC#2 as it would be TDC #1 on SBC or a SBF. It's odd the Dodge has #1 on the front right. That's the only thing I can think I may have done.

Edit: This is just purely a thought, but when my heads were built last week the guy shimmed the springs to get a higher spring rate. He said it would help overall with a good seal of the valve seats and help keep compression up. Would the higher spring rate be too much for my stock non hardened pushrods to handle?

 

Erm, Number one cylinder is the drivers side front..... just like chevy.......

 

I was under the impression that these are non interference engines..

 

There is some debate on that too..... I have seen it stated in various locations that they are indeed non-interference motors, yet, we had a member here bork his cam timing, and waste a selection of valves.....

 

Roll the pushrod across a sheet of glass. If it wobbles, it's bent.

Stock cam height may indeed be non-interference, but that's only .432" lift on a 5.2L with the stock pistons .050" in the hole, I believe. The 5.9L gets significantly more clearance due to the dished piston, and only a .418" lift on the stock cam.

I never actually measured the depth of the combustion chamber on my heads, but my gut says it's pretty close to touching in the stock configuration at the two extremes. Add a performance cam, and it could easily go over.

Did you use that JP Performance set? The crank sprocket is double marked for clarity, the 0 on the outside circle should face straight up to the cam sprocket mark, the 0 on the inner circle is for the crank key way. I'm wondering if you transposed those somehow.