Got some more work done this weekend. Work has been overly busy, and adding to that, I'm suffering from a man cold ;o)

Pretty dirty, a bit of oil build up too so guessing it's all pretty good that I'm down and under here now.







Lots of bolts all removed and I was looking at stuff I've never seen before. This has definitely been a very enjoyable/educational experience.







And then onto the timing chain cover.







InfO.

 

Get a double roller timing chain to replace that with. If you want to ensure that your bottom end will hold together for a long time, then have the rods shotpeened and the crankshaft cryogenically treated.

 

I've already grabbed a double roller timing chain, about to tackle that. Quick question though, and I am SURE it has been brought up but I just want to clarify since reading someone elses thread and then looking at my timing chain tend to be two different beasts.

As I stare at mine, I see the dots are BOTH at the 12 o'clock position. I've been reading the Haynes and they are talking about turning the camshaft sprocket and such.

I'm following this: http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-37.html

Which I have found very informative. He talks about turning the crankshaft sprocket after advancing 4 degrees which seems to make sense to me, since the dot would no longer be at the 12 o'clock position.

Now... being that I am not a mechanic and am learning this as I go... but if I replace it with a double roller timing chain set in the EXACT same positions it's in now.... isn't that going to be okay? As in, don't turn anything and make sure the dots on the old morse chain are the same as on the double roller chain? Or perhaps I am missing something critical (which is 100% possible).

Insight would be appreciated. The double roller timing chain set I have DOES have the ability to advance and retard 4 degrees, but my understanding is that since this engine is computer controlled, it won't net much and if anything, is something to remember to mention if going with a SCT

Thanks,
InfO.

 

engine looks pretty clean, without bad sludge build up.
definitely ready for a timing chain. i just glanced at your first post about lineup of engine to TDC. that's not really necessary, and its best to (WITH CHAIN STILL ON) rotate engine so the sprockets are aligned dot-to-dot. i think this is top of #6 maybe.

this allows you to KNOW that its still in alignment when you tighten it back down.

are you going to replace the rear main oil seal? i noticed a lot of oil on the back of your oil pan. just be sure to put the seal in correctly, not backwards, and retorque the caps correctly. also use the anaerobic sealer and rtv exactly as called for in Haynes/Service manual.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html





more pics...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ater-pump.html

 

Actually... I stand corrected... Mine does more than 4 degrees apparently.

 

Hey dhvaughan,

Thanks for chiming in, I appreciate it. I've been following your tutorials and the link I submitted actually came from your info. I used the one you provided to drop the oil pan and oil pump. I'm awaiting the parts, as I ordered a new HV oil pump and a rear main seal. I'll take a close look at the sealer and RTV as mentioned in the Haynes. Thanks for that info. I'll crank it all around then. I have a feeling I had it like yours earlier, but when I looked at the rotor I thought it was 180 wrong, so I turned some more ;o) Lesson learned!

Thanks,
InfO.

PS. You say it looks pretty clean, but for the sludge that is there... any really effective way of cleaning it all out? I read another few posts where individuals recommended pouring diesel and kerosene through (since the drain pain is off) and giving everything a bit of a scrub. Thoughts?

 

Leave it alone. Don't put anything in the motor besides, Change your oil a couple 100 miles after putting it back together. After that, get some Rislone engine oil treatment and a quality brand of oil (and a Wix filter) . Throw the Fram away and don't buy another one. Use the rislone in place of a quart of oil and you'll be happy. Or should I say your motor will be happy.

 

Hahaha! I _KNEW_ I was gonna get called on that Fram!! I picked up some rislone already after reading how great of a job it does. I'll just clean up whatever is visible for sludge and go from there.

Gotta get a lot of parts cleaned, some are going to be painted, and still waiting for a few to show up. Then I can get onto assembly time! Though... I forsee that in September unfortunately ( Field time, Halifax, and POA 12 in Florida will slow everything down.

InfO.

 

Good call I say. And whether or not the oil filter is a Fram, it looks to me like it was way overdue to be replaced.

 

Installed:



Nothing got turned, and the old chain and sprockets slid off nice and easy. New ones took a little finesse to get all the way back, but look good.

InfO.