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  #1  
Old 12-03-2012, 01:20 PM
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I see a lot of people on here say use coppers only, I used to then switched to the newer iridium plugs and notice the engine fires faster and stronger with no side effects. Been using these for 2 years now why is copper better? Also I plan on doing a little engine work starting with a chip and recommendations on the best brand to use?
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:26 PM
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The only real issue I'm aware of concerning plugs is the use of those Bosch Platinum +4. I've never used them myself, but I've read from those that have, that they just don't work well with these trucks.

I know several people here use the iridium plugs such as those from NGK without issue. But I think ultimately it comes down to the fact that few notice any real difference between regular copper plugs and the expensive ones. So the idea is, why pay more?
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:26 PM
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Don't waste your money on a chip, just save and get a sct tuner from hemifever.... New timing chain too before you go too crazy with engine work

The list goes on...
 
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:21 PM
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Ok well with the chain I see people say stock I see double chain and adjustments for power. What should I get? The bottom line goal is to get a 1:1 horsepower to cubic inch out of it so if the timing chain should be first what is a good way to go?
 
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:28 PM
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rthompson
Ok well with the chain I see people say stock I see double chain and adjustments for power. What should I get? The bottom line goal is to get a 1:1 horsepower to cubic inch out of it so if the timing chain should be first what is a good way to go?
Good luck getting 360 hp out of it without spending serious$$$$. The idea of a "square" motor is 1:1 hp and torque in line with your displacement, plus bore and stroke identical. It's the difference between being fast or being quick. One gets you there, the other keeps you there.
Take my 2010 HD superglide, 96 CI, 96 Tq, 90 hp. Almost Square. But runs like a champ the entire powerband. That's the goal, faster than bikes with 110 CI because they lack the torque and HP.
 

Last edited by Halojm; 12-04-2012 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:36 PM
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Well I got a buddy of mine that owns a shop and does good work. When I mentioned the timing belt he told me to go all gears and no belt and while I am at it swap the cams as well. He offered the put in performance cans, new timing gears, M1 performance intake manifold, 1.7 HS roller rockers and a performance distributor cap for $500 only (I provide the parts). Pair that along with a CAI and 52mm Throttle body already in it I would assume all that would be almost a 100hp jump and close to the same with torque am I right?
 
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:58 PM
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Nope not even close. There is only one gear drive for a 360 and that's for a LA motor not sure if it fits a Magnum 360. What are the cam specs? Don't go over .480 lift or you will need more work and parts. No big jump in hp until heads and pistons are changed out. What are you using for a tune on the pcm? You have a 94 which limits what you can add to your motor, go to far and it will not run right. It would need to be sent out to B&G for programming.
 
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:07 PM
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Our trucks don't have a timing belt- they have a timing chain. A good double roller should be sufficient. Like Merc said also I don't think a gear drive is available for a 360 Magnum. If there is I couldn't find one.
 
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:11 PM
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Gear drive is unnecessary unless you are running some huge cam in any event. Double roller is good enough for some serious power, overkill for a basically stock engine.

Being a 94, tuning IS going to be an issue. Keep that in mind when you are selecting parts, you have a very limited choice before you will HAVE to do something about the tune.
 


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