I just remembered...I used to stall out when I first got my truck at stop lights, turns out the little hose that bridges the plastic vacuum tube to the map sensor was cracked & leaking vacuum. I would go over your vacuum hoses and check for rubber thats hard & not pliable. I've seen too many of these Trucks and just any vehicle in general with hard non pliable hoses that don't seal anymore and lose vacuum and if attempted to be removed they either will crack/break or refuse to seal anymore. Get a new PCV hose & a small 2-3 inch long hose for the map sensor to plastic vacuum hose bridge, those are the two that always break or fail to seal when old, and if you feel ambitious change the master cylinder brake booster hose that goes from the intake to the booster.

Heck the last two 360's I worked on I broke the pcv valve and the hose it was attached to trying to pull it out, one was a 2000 and the other was a 94, oddly enough the 2000's pcv broke in more places lol.

Once you get new hoses and do that plenum fix you'll find the cure for the stalling, if not then your Torque Converter lock up is acting up, but more likely the plenum gasket is an issue causing the stalling. My friends Dad bucked me on the plenum fix saying his motor ran too good, till after his tune up failed to cure the slight amount of roughness he said "lets do the plenum" and after he had zero issues.

 

Gotcha... thanks ill rule that out.

 

tried to reply to you on my phone but was having forum issues with it.

thanks for the reply again, i think im just going to replace all vac lines. they look good but show age. might as well put fresh ones on just so i know its all good and sealed.

is the TC lock up a switch(and able to get to kinda easily) on these trucks? i came across someone saying something about replacing the switch or something... not 100% sure, ive read alot in the last few days could be mixing things up.

 

Check the plugs for cause of misfires.

And TC will not be the issue. It cannot lockup until several things happen, whcih includes building enough pressure, which does not happen at idle.

 

No offense but I take it you never had a TC lock up happen at idle. The Torque Converter Lock Up Solenoid is supposed to electronically lock the converter at Highway speeds so the engine & transmission input spin at the same speed of 1 to 1 essentially becoming more like a manual transmission clutch locked in with the engine speed instead of multiplying torque like the torque converter does at lower speeds & take off to create power. Anyway The Lock up gives you better gas mileage because the converter is not slipping & spinning faster to multiply torque as it is not needed at highway speeds.

The TC will lock up if the magnetic solenoid sticks or engages for any reason. The lock up of the torque converter itself is controlled electronically by the solenoid not hydraulically, it may use perameters set by line pressure of the transmission but if the solenoid is bad it could just ignore those parameters. I'm not a transmission expert in anyway shape or form but I've had experience with TC lock ups & non lock ups. My sisters 2000 Ram had one go out and would stall as soon as she put it into drive from reverse or stall at stops until it was fixed.

On my Neon I had hit a puddle & screwed up my electronics (till they dried out) and lost my torque converter lockup, I'd run 4,000 Rpm at 65mph when I'd normally run about 2800Rpm and boy did she have a set of ***** for passing! But I could almost watch the gas gauge move.

Cavaliers & Grand Am's were noted for TC lock ups & stalling at a stop.

I personally don't think our posters problem is a TC lock up but we cannot rule it out until he fixes the other issues on the engine first.

 

ill pull the plugs sometime this week and check them out. really hope it dont turn into a lock up issue, i dont think it is cause i have no other trans issues.

edit..... damn laptop posted and i wasnt done w/my post..


ok, went out this morning and did what i tried yesterday. fresh start, threw it in reverse and it didnt die, so this time i backed out of my garge driveway then into drive to swing into my house driveway, threw it back in reverse and backed all the way up my house driveway, without any problems.

so it sems it really only stalls when first brought up to temp.. never noticed it before, but im not the type to jump in and take off when its freezing cold outside.

gonna throw this muffler on my dads 2500 today then get to work on my truck.

 

got my throttle body off for a good cleaning. managed to brake the 2 bolts holding the MAP sensor on while stripping the TB. now i have to find replacement bolts and get the 2 stubs out the TB.

got a good look inside the keg, little oil, took some pics, figured i'd post them.

 

This is possible. But it would require that the PCM thinks the VB has adequate pressure, that it has upshifted to 3rd, and VSS is approariate. It could happen as you say, but I wonder how likely it is.

I am not a tranny expert either, but used to rebuild them about 25-30 years ago (ford c4 and C6 and a few Powerglides). And only one 46RE. But I think I'll pull the manual and do some more reading and looking at hyd circuits. Interesting issue.

One way to rule it out is to pull the connector form side of tranny, and drive it shifting manually. This would eliminate TCC. But if problem is intermittant, it may be pretty inconvenient.

 

Only way to get lockup when it shouldn't, is an electrical short (intermittent) or a sticky solenoid. GM was famous for the latter problem on some of their front wheel drive transmissions..... solenoid would activate once, and stick. Car would stall when coming to a stop. Disabling TCC would deal with it, but, gas mileage would suffer.

 

well quick update..

could not get the broken bolts out of the TB housing, so instead of rushing to drill and tape them i ran up to pull a part today and grabbed a TB. (man was it nasty).. cleaned it up good, installed all my new sensors on that one and threw it on.. man that throttle response is there now, runs really smooth now.. gonna mess around and port and polish the original one after i drill and tap it.

tried the reverse upon fresh start up again, did not stall and i sat in reverse w/my foot on the brake for about a minute. ran inside while it began to learn its self again and warm up, came out and threw it in reverse, got 1/2 way down my garage driveway and bam, stalled. so it really only happens once it gets up to temp. drive it for a bit and you can reverse all day long.. -scratches head-

anyway, im a pic wh0re, so here we go..............

original on right, one from pull a part on left.








one from pull a part all cleaned up.