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Electric fan conversion under $100

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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 12:44 PM
  #21  
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I have a 30A fuse for the last year with no issues. I don't want a 180* stat, because I don't like check engine lights.

And the zipties have held just fine thank you very much
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 12:14 PM
  #22  
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i had a 30A and it blew twice, so i put in a Maxi Fuse 40A and its fine.
I put in a 180 stat and my truck runs better on 87 gas.. I never saw a check engine light because of the stat change..

Take your truck to someone with a good Scanner and check for Fuel Synch, it must be as close to 0 as possible. Also, check that timing chain, those chains stretch pretty fast, i had over 1/2" in over 50K!
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 02:32 PM
  #23  
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Thanks for the advice.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BacT3R1a
i had a 30A and it blew twice, so i put in a Maxi Fuse 40A and its fine.
I put in a 180 stat and my truck runs better on 87 gas.. I never saw a check engine light because of the stat change..

Take your truck to someone with a good Scanner and check for Fuel Synch, it must be as close to 0 as possible. Also, check that timing chain, those chains stretch pretty fast, i had over 1/2" in over 50K!

Running a 180 stat with a tune, you are probably running rich. Won't always set a code, but still run rich. PCM dumps fuel to get it up to the temp it thinks it should be. Just so you know....
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 12:38 PM
  #25  
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i dont have any tune on my dodge, just gutted cats and air filter.
If you have stock thermofan, maybe your temp stays cooler than 180 with a 180 stat, but i have a e-fan and my stat opens at 180, but i turn on the fan at 195 and the needle is almost like with the 195, so i'm running at around 185 constant. Anything past 120 degrees is past 'cold start' where the ecu exits rich, warmup state and enters variable state where O2 sensors begin to fluctuate and control A/F ratio.

I've seen plenty of rich state stuck ecu in many cars past normal operation temps, but that was either bad temp sensor or bad O2 sensor.
This RAM has 4 O2 sensors, so one bad downstream sensor and richie rich will attack your ecu most of the time wasting gas and killing cats, if u have any..
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 04:57 AM
  #26  
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I did the same conversion after reading this thread. My temperature is where it should be. But over the past few weeks it has burned the relay out three times. Any idea as to what is causing this?
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #27  
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Use a heavier duty relay. Something rated for continuous duty, at a higher amp rating than the max draw of your fan(s).
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 09:44 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Scratcher09
I did the same conversion after reading this thread. My temperature is where it should be. But over the past few weeks it has burned the relay out three times. Any idea as to what is causing this?
I've used the relay that came with the e-fan controller and had no problems. Use a high amperage relay thats rated for 50+ AMPs.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 03:20 PM
  #29  
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BacT3R1a, where did u connect the wire for the ac clutch? I never tested to see if the fan was coming in with the ac. Just noticed it is not coming on with the ac. It does come on when my temp rises an it should but turning on ac while engine is not yet hot has no affect on e-fan. Thanks for the advice.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #30  
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Will I be able to find a higher rated relay that will plug in to the controller? Where can I find it?
 
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