1998 ram 1500 auto getting 1996 ram 1500 manual
#1
1998 ram 1500 auto getting 1996 ram 1500 manual
hi, so i just had a question or two before i pick up my donor truck. i have a 98 ram 1500 4x4 with an auto. im buying a 1996 ram 1500 manual 4x4. my motor has a bad headgasket, about 3 months after i put a hughes plenum in, tune up, and new valve springs and rockers because it ticked from the pickup being plugged. anyways. i was going to put the motor and tranny, transfercase and driveshafts in from the 96, would it be faster to switch all wiring harness and computer from the 96 to my 98 or mess with all the wiring to get everything to work i am using motor trans and transfercase, but what is the difference? both trucks are slt laramie. both 318. i have heard about the engine stalling while downshifting with the auto trans computer because of the torque converter. could i keep my computer and use the manual trans harness? any advice is great im going to pick the truck up next weekend, got a great deal on it 300$ for the whole truck, missing a box and fenders.has 330k on it, but mines only 25k less.
thanks guys
thanks guys
#2
Change the intake from your motor, to the one you are installing. Possibly crank and cam sensors as well. Aside from that, it will be a direct bolt in. (changing the intake makes sure you have all the correct sensors for your current PCM.)
So far as I have been able to tell, the ONLY difference between a manual trans PCM, and an Auto trans PCM, is the programming..... Without re-flashing your PCM for a manual trans, you will get a check engine lite for things that aren't there any more. The 96 PCM and harness won't work, as too much changed from 97-98. Programming and wiring are dramatically different. Far easier to get your current PCM flashed for the manual trans. Hemifever could do it for ya, (sell you the tuner, and correct programming), but, I think he is out of the actual tuners till the new version comes out. Other alternative would be to see if the dealer could do it for you. Probably charge an hour labor or so.
So far as I have been able to tell, the ONLY difference between a manual trans PCM, and an Auto trans PCM, is the programming..... Without re-flashing your PCM for a manual trans, you will get a check engine lite for things that aren't there any more. The 96 PCM and harness won't work, as too much changed from 97-98. Programming and wiring are dramatically different. Far easier to get your current PCM flashed for the manual trans. Hemifever could do it for ya, (sell you the tuner, and correct programming), but, I think he is out of the actual tuners till the new version comes out. Other alternative would be to see if the dealer could do it for you. Probably charge an hour labor or so.
#4
#6
Ok, so far the trans is on my floor with a new clutch and release bearing, the pedals are in my truck and the resevoir is on my truck. The brake pedal from the manual is slightly different in terms of the brake switch, they are literally .001" different I had to put a zip tie on my pedal so it would make contact with the switch. Then when I was trying to put the master for he clutch in I found my truck doesn't have the right bracket, it's supposed to be square so that the master can push and turn lock. My bracket is just a round hole. So I gotta take the pedals back out and take the pedal bracket off the other truck and out it on mine. Then I removed my cup holder and cut the hole in my floor, covered it up with rags and self tappers for now, I have tons of pics I'll be uploading when I get home I'm on my cell phone I just wanted to update and list the problems I've come across end, none major yet thank god.
UPDATE.
i found out that in 98 they changed the clutch master cylinder to a bolt in style. so i exchanged the new one for 96 for the new one for a 98. bolted in perfect. everythings set up ive just gotta put the trans in now. which is on hold because i have to fix the car so i have something to drive to work while my truck is apart. i have photos from along the way.
UPDATE.
i found out that in 98 they changed the clutch master cylinder to a bolt in style. so i exchanged the new one for 96 for the new one for a 98. bolted in perfect. everythings set up ive just gotta put the trans in now. which is on hold because i have to fix the car so i have something to drive to work while my truck is apart. i have photos from along the way.
Last edited by Nortzy; 08-04-2013 at 12:32 PM.
#7
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#8
Alright. Down to the point where no one can help me at any local parts store or garage. My pilot bearing is givin me a hard time, it looks like my crank has been drilled for it but I'm not sure, it does have a 1.5" deep section that's been drilled bigger than the rest of the crank. I would upload photo but I ant figur it out. Anyone know how big the hole in the crank is supposed to be and if the hole is too small is there a brash bushing or something I can use? Thanks
#9
#10
1996 Ram 1500, 5.2 ltr, Cranks, no start.
Customer thought fuel pump failure,, so away they went replacing the pump. Towed in to me after their pump install,, because of no start issue. For me, truck would fire up and run rough for about a minute then straighten out. Fuel Gauge wouldn't work, so I yanked the tank back out and straightened out the jammed float issue, after completed fuel gauge worked, but I could not get it to start > Customer insisted I install new ignition, so reluctantly I did. Still no start or relay's action
PCM getting good 12 volt, ran down the 5volt reference wires from PCM, and all doing what they should. No relay action from any relays, unless I pull "out and in" Black PCM connector and fiddle with it "in and out" to PCM female port. All connections related to my black connector good, my instinct tells me shorted or not working crank sensor, or cam sensor.
"I'm aware of the multiple controls the fuel pump relay does on Chrysler"
I've not experienced this type of situation in the past. Any input would be friendly..
THX, From Joe.
Customer thought fuel pump failure,, so away they went replacing the pump. Towed in to me after their pump install,, because of no start issue. For me, truck would fire up and run rough for about a minute then straighten out. Fuel Gauge wouldn't work, so I yanked the tank back out and straightened out the jammed float issue, after completed fuel gauge worked, but I could not get it to start > Customer insisted I install new ignition, so reluctantly I did. Still no start or relay's action
PCM getting good 12 volt, ran down the 5volt reference wires from PCM, and all doing what they should. No relay action from any relays, unless I pull "out and in" Black PCM connector and fiddle with it "in and out" to PCM female port. All connections related to my black connector good, my instinct tells me shorted or not working crank sensor, or cam sensor.
"I'm aware of the multiple controls the fuel pump relay does on Chrysler"
I've not experienced this type of situation in the past. Any input would be friendly..
THX, From Joe.