Weird A/C Issue?
#21
Okay, I have been looking at the wrong pully lol, I went outside and turned the truck on and atm, the a/c is working perfectly fine, even through engine cycles, that'll last about a day lol.
With the air working the clutch is stopping/starting about every 15 seconds or so with the max a/c on, atm it's working, so I can't tell if it's spinning at all when the air is not cold, I will look for that next time it happen's.
If it does is it safe to try and possibly tap the compressor by the clutch and or try and spin it to see if it kicks on? I have noticed that when the air does work, after a period of about 10 minutes it sometimes kicks off and doesn't go back to cold like it might of gotten too hot?
I think it is doing this honestly:
RAPID COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH CYCLING (TEN
OR MORE CYCLES PER
MINUTE).
1. Low refrigerant system
charge.
2. Faulty a/c low pressure switch
3. Faulty Powertrain
Control Module (PCM).
I tested the low pressure switch on the accumulator earlier, and it get's power to it just fine, I don't know where the PCM is, so I can't test that just yet.
It's only doing about 5 or so atm with the air actually kicking on, the air has yet to go out again, so until it does, I can neither test if the clutch engages, or if it spins 10 or more times.
With the air working the clutch is stopping/starting about every 15 seconds or so with the max a/c on, atm it's working, so I can't tell if it's spinning at all when the air is not cold, I will look for that next time it happen's.
If it does is it safe to try and possibly tap the compressor by the clutch and or try and spin it to see if it kicks on? I have noticed that when the air does work, after a period of about 10 minutes it sometimes kicks off and doesn't go back to cold like it might of gotten too hot?
I think it is doing this honestly:
RAPID COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH CYCLING (TEN
OR MORE CYCLES PER
MINUTE).
1. Low refrigerant system
charge.
2. Faulty a/c low pressure switch
3. Faulty Powertrain
Control Module (PCM).
I tested the low pressure switch on the accumulator earlier, and it get's power to it just fine, I don't know where the PCM is, so I can't test that just yet.
It's only doing about 5 or so atm with the air actually kicking on, the air has yet to go out again, so until it does, I can neither test if the clutch engages, or if it spins 10 or more times.
Last edited by JeremyMichael; 10-14-2013 at 01:57 AM.
#22
Okay post back when you find out if clutch is engaged or not when it quits on you. On mine it would blow cold for 10 minutes in the morning and then wouldn't work the rest of the day. what happened is the clutch friction surface had worn down creating a gap too large for the magnet to pull the clutch. All that was needed is remove one shim and it was fixed. Not sure if same happening with yours.
#23
Okay, I will let you know, if it indeed does this, and I want to try my hand at the shim task, I am pretty much a complete novice, but follow direction well, is there a good tutorial on this site that I could print and follow if I do decide to try that route? And also would I need any special tools?
And mine, can usually kick on and off through out the day through random engine cycles, I would say about 30% of the day it work's, and if it's on too long it kick's off until it decides it wants to come back on again lol.
And mine, can usually kick on and off through out the day through random engine cycles, I would say about 30% of the day it work's, and if it's on too long it kick's off until it decides it wants to come back on again lol.
#24
Just remove the nut in the center of the clutch, carefully slide the front plate off the shaft, may need to slide a flathead screwdriver in each side to rock it out, don't bend it. when it comes off be careful you dont lose the shims on the shaft they may come out with the clutch plate. leave one off and reassemble. You should be able to do this without removing the radiator fan shroud.
Also you may want to mark the orientation of the clutch plate to the spline shaft. Put it back on in exactly the same spot. That way you wont have any high or low spots, and not have to re-break in the friction surfaces.
Wont hurt to tap the compressor with it running, just stay away from the front clutch, there's a bunch of ***** sticking out that you don't see when it's spinning.
Also you may want to mark the orientation of the clutch plate to the spline shaft. Put it back on in exactly the same spot. That way you wont have any high or low spots, and not have to re-break in the friction surfaces.
Wont hurt to tap the compressor with it running, just stay away from the front clutch, there's a bunch of ***** sticking out that you don't see when it's spinning.
Last edited by beeker; 10-14-2013 at 02:28 AM.
#25
Again, i'm sorry lol.
#27
Guess i'm not that noobish after all haha >.<. The ac is still working flawlessly atm lol, for some reason I am beginning to think the clutch likes to engage, or the air likes to work the colder it get's, even though it's fall and the day time temps are like 50-70, it seems the air seems to work more at night lol.
Question though, if the defrost requires the clutch to engage, and it engages when the heat is on, but not when the cold would be on, what could that possibly mean (not sure if this happen's but i'm going to find out lol)?
I am eager atm to find out if when the air isn't cold, if the clutch is engaging, so I can test that and both the defrost since they both engage the clutch. But i'm thankful atm that it does work >.<.
I'm going to laugh if it does engage when the air isn't cold (since i've been looking at the wrong pully this whole time -.- lol), and just sometimes the air decides to be ice cold, and others just a slight cool breeze, meaning it may just need topped off lol. If not, the shim job is next.
Question though, if the defrost requires the clutch to engage, and it engages when the heat is on, but not when the cold would be on, what could that possibly mean (not sure if this happen's but i'm going to find out lol)?
I am eager atm to find out if when the air isn't cold, if the clutch is engaging, so I can test that and both the defrost since they both engage the clutch. But i'm thankful atm that it does work >.<.
I'm going to laugh if it does engage when the air isn't cold (since i've been looking at the wrong pully this whole time -.- lol), and just sometimes the air decides to be ice cold, and others just a slight cool breeze, meaning it may just need topped off lol. If not, the shim job is next.
#28
Your truck is a 2000, right? The temp door on yours is controlled by a little electric motor, under the dash, right above the trans tunnel, toward the passenger side. There is a plastic coupler between the motor, and the axle the temp door is attached to, that likes to crack, and lets the door flop around loose. Your A/C problem may not be electrical at all. It may simply be the temp door flopping the wrong way, and giving you warm air, when you want cold.
#29
I will check that, but the air is never really (warm) it's just straight up air most of the time, that isn't hot or anything, but slightly cool. It is slightly warm though during the hotter days when the sun beats down on the truck, then the air coming out is kinda warm due to the outside temp.
Last edited by JeremyMichael; 10-14-2013 at 09:03 AM.
#30