The 98 rearend I found is the same 9.25. He doesnt have the driveshaft so have to change the pinion flange...little hesitant because that means messing with the crush sleeves and spacing doesnt it

 

Measure torque required to turn the pinion. Change the flange. Torque the nut so it requires just a bit more torque (2-3 inch pounds) to turn the pinion. Should be golden.

 

What HeyYou posted but with more detail.

From the 2001 FSM

PINION SEAL

REMOVAL

(1) Raise and support the vehicle.

(2) Mark the universal joint, companion flange and pinion shaft for installation reference.

(3) Remove the propeller shaft from the companion flange. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright position to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.

(4) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.

(5) Remove the brake drums to prevent any drag. The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque measurement.

(6) Rotate the companion flange three or four times.

(7) Measure the amount of torque necessary to rotate the pinion with an inch pound torque wrench. Record the torque reading for installation reference.

(8) Install socket head bolts into two of the threaded holes in the companion flange, 180° apart.

(9) Position Holder 6719A against the companion flange and install a hex head bolt and washer into one of the remaining threaded holes. Tighten the bolts so the holder is held to the flange.

(10) Hold the flange with holder and remove the pinion nut and washer.

(11) Remove the companion flange with Remover C-452 (Fig. 22).

(12) Remove pinion seal with a pry tool or slide hammer mounted screw.

INSTALLATION

NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated with a special sealant. An additional application of sealant is not required.

(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.

(2) Install new pinion seal with Installer C-3860-A and Handle C-4171.

NOTE: The seal is correctly installed when the seal flange contacts the face of the differential housing.

(3) Position the companion flange on the end of the shaft with the reference marks aligned.

(4) Install socket head bolts into two of the threaded holes in the companion flange, 180° apart.

(5) Position Holder 6719A against the companion flange and install a hex head bolt and washer into one of the remaining threaded holes. Tighten the bolts so the holder is held to the flange.

(6) Seat companion flange on pinion shaft with Installer C-3718 and Holder 6719.

(7) Remove the installer and install the pinion washer and a new pinion nut. The convex side of the washer must face outward.

CAUTION: Do not exceed the minimum tightening torque when installing the companion flange retaining nut at this point. Damage to collapsible spacer or bearings may result.

(8) Hold companion flange with Holder 6719 and tighten the pinion nut to 285 N•m (210 ft. lbs.) (Fig.23). Rotate pinion several revolutions to ensure the bearing rollers are seated.

(9) Rotate the pinion using an (in. lbs.) torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal, plus an additional 0.56 N•m (5 in. lbs.) (Fig. 24).

 

Ok sorry for frustrating everyone. Found a exact replacement used rearend. Problem I could repair myrearend with a locking diff, detroit locker, yukon etc, if I do the install for what it would cost to replace with the used...concern is I have had a couple people tell me because my bearing exploded and I drove it like 10 miles in 4wd the case, pinion bearing/seal seating area may be oblonged or damage, even though not visibly, and may never get it all to back together right or without leaks etc. Any thought or opinions before I go buy the replacement rearend...

 

If I did the repair with locker I would ptobably just use new stock ratio gears to save the cost of changing the front gears for a few months also...

 

How much do they want for the used rear?

Since you can't drive your truck at the moment... get a bore gauge, and measure the housing where the pinion race goes, that blew up. if it is within tolerance, rebuild it.