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Rearend...2nd to 3rd Gen. question...

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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #41  
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will try to get back out and look for the numbers, couldnt find them last night just the w-027 written in white on the edge of the ring gear. It is a 9.25 in it now and looks like 3.55 ratio. wouldnt a dana 60 be from a 2500 and be a big swap including new wheels and tires
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:46 PM
  #42  
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did find a guy that is parting out a Ram 2500 but dont know what would be entailed in a swap like that
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:56 PM
  #43  
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Driveshaft
Different perches
Wheels

Wa lah.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:57 PM
  #44  
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This what it cost me in parts to do just the rear diff

New wheels $135 each
Mount and balance 2 tires on new rims $100
Two Mopar spring perches $12 for the set
Rear diff Dana 60 $150
Rear pinion yoke for the Dana 60, to change it over to the 7290 u-joint $75, same as what the 9.25 uses.
Cut and shorten the rear Ds $40, if you can find a used rear 2500 DS that will fit that is the better way to go over what I did.
New u-bolts could be up to $100 for a set of four, depends on where you get them from.

Depending on the shape of things like drum's, brake shoes, seals, gear oil, you can add another $300-$500 to the cost.

Note: Prices are CDN funds

There is welding done the way I choose, expect to get a mobile welding truck in or have someone with a mig come and weld the perches for you.

In some areas you can cut some of the cost like finding used wheels.

Edit: The two main reasons I went to the 60's are.

1 The bigger brakes.
2 The rear 60 is a full floating diff.
3 More choices for lockers.
4 More choices for gear ratios.
 

Last edited by merc225hp; Jan 11, 2014 at 05:07 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 09:15 PM
  #45  
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got a guy that has a 98 rearend with 3.55 in it minus the brakes that he will sell me for $100...may be the cheapest solution, did someone say there may be a issue with axle length on pre 2000's??? Also hearing the brakes are different
 

Last edited by IFD31; Jan 11, 2014 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 10:42 PM
  #46  
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The bolt patterns on the ends of the axles should be the same.... Just transfer all you stuff, starting with the backing plates.... to the new axle. (verify first.)

Either that, or just live without the E-brake?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 10:57 PM
  #47  
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usually chop the ebrake out completely, just want to be sure that the rearend will fit my truck and I can use the brakes, speed sensors etc I have before getting it.
 

Last edited by IFD31; Jan 11, 2014 at 11:00 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 11:53 PM
  #48  
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Been there, taxi took out my rear end, I had new drums, brakes, the body shop replaced my rear end with something ffrom the junkyard. Lost my new brake drums.
At one time I planned on getting a TruLok, glad I didn't. I cant even arugue with these people. Just glad to get my truck back.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 02:08 PM
  #49  
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well was all set to go pick up the 98 rearend and then started thinking about needing to change the flange...is that possibly going to cause me problems with the backlash or spacing or whatever and the crush sleeve problems I was hopin to avoid with swapping the whole rearend....just a bit nerves about that, never played with them....
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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^^^ Simply put no, this would be the same as changing a pinion seal. This is in the FSM if you don't have that yet I would go download it. Are you getting the rear DS as well? I was able to use all the ebrake cables org to the 1500, they hooked up no problems to the Dana 60.

Edit: You found a 98 diff what type of diff 9.25 or?????
 

Last edited by merc225hp; Jan 12, 2014 at 02:36 PM.
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