Put 700 incident free miles on this truck until yesterday. First sign of anything i was backing up and put it in drive and it slipped a little and took off. Ran fine until about 15 miles from home then the OD kicked out and trans temp light come on so i pulled over and let it cool. When i took off it was sluggish and the first stop sign i got to it was barely pulling itself. I let it completely cool when i got home and now i have reverse, i can manually put it in 1st and it moves fine or i can manually shift from 1st through the other gears while in motion. I checked to make sure fluid was flowing through both lines on the cooler and it was and i changed the filter and fluid. The fluid didnt smell burnt but was a burgundy color. Mileage on tranny is unkown but has worked flawlessly until yesterday. I do have a torque converter lock up fault on my pcm. Is there anything i can do before having to pull the entire tranny, clean valve body, replace solenoids? I dont know why a tranny would burn up within hours and still have strong reverse and 1st gear. When i put it in drive it engages but will not move just rev.

 

Clutches are slipping, or bands. Did you adjust the bands while you were in there? Clean the governor pressure solenoid?

Try this:

Disconnect 8 pin connector about halfway back on the trans, drivers side.
Take truck for short test drive. You will have to shift gears manually, as there will be zero automatic function.
If the truck shifts nice, when you tell it to, replace governor pressure sensor and solenoid.
If it doesn't, it's rebuild time.

 

I adjusted checked the bands. Front one was a little off. I drove it again and it acts like when its in drive it is trying to pull itself but stuck in a high gear. I can shift manually but seems like a gear is missing kind of like 1st to drive or 2nd to drive, real doggy. Once going it will kickdown to passing gear.

 

Try the test outlined above. Let us know how that works out.

 

I unhooked the 8 pin connector and went for a drive shifting manually. 1st gear was fine but felt like i was still in 1st when i shifted to 2nd and in drive it went to drive. I put the pedal down in drive and it kicked back to passing gear fine. I cant feel any downshifting when i shift down until i shift down to 1st. It still has a slight pull while in drive like it wants to take off but does move slowly. I do notice there is a little tranny fluid coming from the front on my tranny and a slight growl coming from around the torque converter. It did throw a fault a week ago for the torque converter lock up, dont know if the torque converter could have went out. Something went that caused the tranny to overheat and i have already cleared all of my lines. I live in BFE with one parts store that carries nothing and expecting 8 inches of snow so if it still sounds like its electrical i will get to another parts store and replace the solenoids when i get a chance.

 

Missing second makes it seem more like a mechanical problem, although, when you nail it, "passing gear" is actually second......

Does it seem like it is slipping? Did you find anything odd in the pan when you had it off?

 

It doesnt slip when it finally gets up to speed and when it hits passing gear it takes right off. When i changed the oil there was the basic sludge around the magnet and some small brass flakes in the pan and a couple fine aluminum flakes but nothing chunky. When this started i backed up and it was still slightly rolling when i put it in drive and it was the first time it hung up and didnt want to move for a few seconds. The trans fluid is burgundy again and i have barely driven it but trans has not overheated since i have driven it with new fluid. I am leaning towards the clutches being worn and when i slipped it the other day it wiped out what was holding the friction. It pulled fine until i stopped it at the intersection after it gave the trans temp light then it was still pulling but barely like it is right now. I know all other mechanical subjects except for transmissions so i am trying to troubleshoot and avoid pulling the trans until i know for sure its fried. My guess is the fluid pressure is not moving enough or the clutches are slipping enought to cause it to overheat.

 

If it didn't slip with the electronics disconnected, you *might* be able to just clean (replace?) governor pressure sensor and solenoid, and have a trans again.... Maybe... Cheaper than a rebuild, if, if it doesn't help, can always just re-use the parts in the rebuild.....

 

Well i messed with it some more today. With the electronics unplugged i get all gears except 1st gear. While in 1st position i have 2nd gear and in 2nd position i have 2nd gear. I read somewhere that his may be some safety feature. I plug the electronics back in and i get revving motor and the truck tries to move in drive and second, i get reverse and 1st this route. I blew out my electronic connectors with break clean and the 8 pin was saturated in trans fluid as well as my connectors inside the pan. I hate to spend $200 in solenoids and switches if this isnt the issue but it seems like a pressure issue since the computer takes over and i dont get gear engagement. It kind of seems like when the computer is in control i doesnt get full engagement of my gears or there is not enough fluid to actuate the system since all but 1st functions when i run it manually. I did get another service light and the last one i got was 1740 for a torque converter lockup im sure this is the same code.

 

I get that code on a fairly regular basis, but, the trans, and TCC, work fine....

You should get 1st with the electronics disabled.... might wanna check linkage adjustment.

You can try just cleaning the governor pressure sensor, and solenoid.... see if it improves anything. (I think there is a DIY for this as well...) If it helps, go ahead and replace the sensors/solenoids and such.