Grinding sound at 70+mph
Hmmm ok thanks a lot for the video. I was talking about my rear drive shaft though.I will check the front drive shaft tomorrow, but from what I remember it was solid as fsr as moving, It might move the t case a little as the rear does. You can rotate it a little but I see that in your video also.
Yes Idk why I haven't gone ahead and changed the rear u joint at transmission. They are cheap and I have obviously had an issue.
SOMETIMES I think I can get a hint of it at lower speeds. 40 and above. Randomly. But it's hard to tell if its just the road or the issue. It does seem to have moved down to lower speeds gradually. But not as severe.
To complicate the rear drive shaft issue more. The original ds that came with my parts trucks and axles was bent from the guy picking it up with a forklift. So I had to buy another used drive shaft.
I have reintsalled front drive shaft at 180degrees to oringal install and it made no change. But my symptoms were still present with no front ds at all also.
Yes Idk why I haven't gone ahead and changed the rear u joint at transmission. They are cheap and I have obviously had an issue.
SOMETIMES I think I can get a hint of it at lower speeds. 40 and above. Randomly. But it's hard to tell if its just the road or the issue. It does seem to have moved down to lower speeds gradually. But not as severe.
To complicate the rear drive shaft issue more. The original ds that came with my parts trucks and axles was bent from the guy picking it up with a forklift. So I had to buy another used drive shaft.
I have reintsalled front drive shaft at 180degrees to oringal install and it made no change. But my symptoms were still present with no front ds at all also.
Last edited by Ham Bone; May 20, 2014 at 10:46 PM.
The front DS shake, if any was prevalent, would be more for it b/c of the chain and other gears. If it's tight, then unless something is broken in the tcase, the rear would be tighter (compared to the front) b/c it's direct to the tranny mainshaft, no chain. It was to show you the play for comparison since you didn't provide any video of your "play"....
With the new information you posted, that helps to know what else to consider...especially w/o the front DS test. Check your rear ubolts, maybe things are slipping there. Torque up to spec in the manual.
With the new information you posted, that helps to know what else to consider...especially w/o the front DS test. Check your rear ubolts, maybe things are slipping there. Torque up to spec in the manual.
Changed rear driveshaft u joint at trans. They both looked good. But the front one looked pretty dry even though I had just lubed them.
No change in my noise grinding.
Bout ready to pull my hair on it this one.
Almost convinced it has soemthing to do withmy tires. Now.
Drove around at all kinds of speeds with those old 100 dolla tires till the rear blew out in my driveway. Got new tires. Then symptoms developed. Tires do flex differently at differenet speeds.
No change in my noise grinding.
Bout ready to pull my hair on it this one.
Almost convinced it has soemthing to do withmy tires. Now.
Drove around at all kinds of speeds with those old 100 dolla tires till the rear blew out in my driveway. Got new tires. Then symptoms developed. Tires do flex differently at differenet speeds.
Hey Ham,
I just thought about a problem I had with my axle swap. I had to weld some new spring perch pads on the rear axle that were 2.5" wide because I used the 1500 leaaf springs. We welded the new ones on with the same reference as the 3" pads that we cut off, just shifted them a little wider. I had a terrible vibration/noise once I came up to 65+ MPH. The problem was the rear pinion angle. The rear pinion was pointed straight at the transfer case and that was a problem unless there is a CV ujoint in the drive shaft. My solution was to cut off the spring perch pads and weld some new ones on with the right pinion angle. This would have been the way to go at installation of the new axles but I did not have my welder at the time. That fixed the problem and now its smooth as can be. The proper pinion angle should be were the transfer case shaft and the pinion shaft should be parrallel.
I just thought about a problem I had with my axle swap. I had to weld some new spring perch pads on the rear axle that were 2.5" wide because I used the 1500 leaaf springs. We welded the new ones on with the same reference as the 3" pads that we cut off, just shifted them a little wider. I had a terrible vibration/noise once I came up to 65+ MPH. The problem was the rear pinion angle. The rear pinion was pointed straight at the transfer case and that was a problem unless there is a CV ujoint in the drive shaft. My solution was to cut off the spring perch pads and weld some new ones on with the right pinion angle. This would have been the way to go at installation of the new axles but I did not have my welder at the time. That fixed the problem and now its smooth as can be. The proper pinion angle should be were the transfer case shaft and the pinion shaft should be parrallel.
Hey Ham,
I just thought about a problem I had with my axle swap. I had to weld some new spring perch pads on the rear axle that were 2.5" wide because I used the 1500 leaaf springs. We welded the new ones on with the same reference as the 3" pads that we cut off, just shifted them a little wider. I had a terrible vibration/noise once I came up to 65+ MPH. The problem was the rear pinion angle. The rear pinion was pointed straight at the transfer case and that was a problem unless there is a CV ujoint in the drive shaft. My solution was to cut off the spring perch pads and weld some new ones on with the right pinion angle. This would have been the way to go at installation of the new axles but I did not have my welder at the time. That fixed the problem and now its smooth as can be. The proper pinion angle should be were the transfer case shaft and the pinion shaft should be parrallel.
I just thought about a problem I had with my axle swap. I had to weld some new spring perch pads on the rear axle that were 2.5" wide because I used the 1500 leaaf springs. We welded the new ones on with the same reference as the 3" pads that we cut off, just shifted them a little wider. I had a terrible vibration/noise once I came up to 65+ MPH. The problem was the rear pinion angle. The rear pinion was pointed straight at the transfer case and that was a problem unless there is a CV ujoint in the drive shaft. My solution was to cut off the spring perch pads and weld some new ones on with the right pinion angle. This would have been the way to go at installation of the new axles but I did not have my welder at the time. That fixed the problem and now its smooth as can be. The proper pinion angle should be were the transfer case shaft and the pinion shaft should be parrallel.




Let me know if anyone wants other angles or whatever. I guess I should go take some of the front at the t case.
Also. Is this much gap In the rotors normal? Sometimes when I hit the brakes I hear a pop or somethin tightening up. I have new front rotors and pads on the way.

More pics
Last edited by Ham Bone; May 27, 2014 at 02:57 PM.
Yeah, they don't need to be real tight on there. They get clamped between the hub, and wheel, when you tighten the lug nuts in any event.
I like the rear disk brake..... I am suitably jealous.
I like the rear disk brake..... I am suitably jealous.
truck stops really well now. Any insight on pinion angles or my symptoms though?
Pinion angles look fine.
Does the noise change if you change direction of travel? (I know, at 70, making hard enough moves to load/unload one side or the other can be .... erm.... exciting... at least.
)
Does the noise change if you change direction of travel? (I know, at 70, making hard enough moves to load/unload one side or the other can be .... erm.... exciting... at least.
)
Well it did get worse changing to the right lane. And no different to the left. Buts that's about I t. Wheel bearings checked out when I inspected them. But that doesn't really mean a lot.







