ECT shorted out now no spark
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Joined: Jun 2014
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Guys at the parts store were wrong. Up until 98, there were two temp sensors. The single wire sensor was for the gauge. Two wire was for the PCM. If you applied 12 volts to the wrong wire on that sensor connector, there is a good chance you smoked the PCM. (it only runs five volts on that sensor, I do believe.)
Are you getting spark while cranking?
Are you getting spark while cranking?
I changed the 2 wire sensor, and when my guage still didn't work I unplugged it and hooked a wire to the red side and meant to touch it to the neg terminal but accidently hit the pos instead, I work 3rd and it was lack of sleep I should had done it when I was rested up and fresh minded....how much is a pcm and what about installing don't you have to have them programmed, this sounds like alot of money, I've changed the ingition coil, distribor & rotor button, but I'm still not getting any spark
Last edited by 95_dodgeram1500_5.2; Jul 27, 2014 at 02:20 PM.
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From: Clayton MI
You *might* be able to just order one from the parts store. Should run around 250 or so. Or, you could try and find a Mopar Performance PCM, slightly meaner programming... but, I think it wants you to use premium gas.....
95 isn't programmable, at least, not easily. If you can find one from a junkyard that has the same engine/trans as yours, (4x4 doesn't matter, PCM doesn't care) from a 94-95, should work as well. (and would be a good test just to verify the PCM is indeed the problem. Which, I suspect, it is.....)
95 isn't programmable, at least, not easily. If you can find one from a junkyard that has the same engine/trans as yours, (4x4 doesn't matter, PCM doesn't care) from a 94-95, should work as well. (and would be a good test just to verify the PCM is indeed the problem. Which, I suspect, it is.....)
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
You should only have power at the coil for about 3 seconds when you initially turn the key, then it should go away. If you see power on the ground side of the coil during that three seconds, then coil is probably good. (since it is new, that's an assumption, wouldn't be the first time I got a bad part right out of the box.)
My guess is, that backfeeding 12 volts thru a 5 volt circuit on the PCM roasted some control circuits.... Does the check engine lite come on when you turn the ignition on?
My guess is, that backfeeding 12 volts thru a 5 volt circuit on the PCM roasted some control circuits.... Does the check engine lite come on when you turn the ignition on?
Thread Starter
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Amateur
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
You should only have power at the coil for about 3 seconds when you initially turn the key, then it should go away. If you see power on the ground side of the coil during that three seconds, then coil is probably good. (since it is new, that's an assumption, wouldn't be the first time I got a bad part right out of the box.)
My guess is, that backfeeding 12 volts thru a 5 volt circuit on the PCM roasted some control circuits.... Does the check engine lite come on when you turn the ignition on?
My guess is, that backfeeding 12 volts thru a 5 volt circuit on the PCM roasted some control circuits.... Does the check engine lite come on when you turn the ignition on?