Do you know what the max is by chance? And possibly the max clearance on other types of heads are?

 

There are the 'monster magnum' EQ heads. they have 2.02 intake, and 1.62 exhaust valves. (larger than stock) They flow better, are better castings, and will give you more power, IF! you get a custom tune to account for them. Of course, larger valves will compromise low-end torque.... the larger will cam will probably make up for most of that though. Also, since you already have the SCT tuner, custom tunes is like 100 bucks for you.

Yep, harland sharp 1.6 ratio full rollers. Dramatically reduced valve train friction. Worth a couple ponies in any event. Now, whether the cost/benefit ratio is there is another question.

You should seriously consider some exhaust upgrades as well. (headers, y-pipe, etc.)

 

Hmm those do sound intriguing to me! This wouldn't be what you are talking about is it? (http://www.aamidwest.com/enginequest...r-magnum-head/

Okay definitely sounds good to me, 1.6 it is definitely!

I definitely have plans for some Full-Length long tube headers to get that full scavenging effect. I've heard of clearance issues with the front driveshaft with Pacesetter long tubes, but I'm sure I can make it work!
The only thing I'm on the fence about it either if I want to a y-pipe or true duals. I heard pratically anything over the stock "crappy" y-pipe I'll gain some power.

 

As already stated, let the cam do the lifting and stick with 1.6 rockers. Since it's a custom cam I would seriously consider adjustable rockers but you will need to drill holes in the valve cover baffles to allow clearance for the poly locks. You will also need studs and guideplates. Little more money but least you are sure they will have correct preload.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's not a custom cam. I'm definitely going to go with adjustable HS 1.6 roller rockers, without a doubt. I wanted to roll with 1.7 but I think I'll definitely be running into clearance issues.
What do you mean by studs and guideplates to be exact?

 

The 20-744-9 has the same lift... if you're not racing, it operates at a lower RPM to give you grunt where it is more likely to be used.

 

That limit is with stock valve springs (which we know are weak)... you need beehive springs beyond .480".
After .520" the spring retainer hits the valve guild.
Deeper spring pockets and shorten the guilds to get more, but beyond .545" you hit the piston.

You'll note he also says that is the only cam that works with 1.7's.

 

Maybe some other members can chime in on whether to use adjustable rollers or fixed. If it's not a stock cam then it's a custom grind. Might be safe with fixed 1.6 with your cam if you were only replacing the cam, but you also need to consider the difference in height of your new heads, gasket thickness, and new pushrod length difference. Using adjustables gives you peace of mind and a little insurance from possible damage.

My cam was cut for use with 1.7 rockers. I built my motor using fixed HS 1.7 rockers but the valves did not close completely, it overheated the #3 exhaust valve guide causing a stuck valve, bent pushrod, and busted lifter.
Ended up costing me an extra $900 to repair, and that's me doing the work. Would have gladly paid the extra $150 for adjustable rockers, studs, and guide plates if I'd known better.

There are 2 types of HS adjustable rockers, pedestal mount with the adjuster over the pushrod, and Stud mount with the adjuster centered on the stud. Both will require cutting or drilling of the stock valve cover baffle. For stud mount type rockers you will need to buy the 5/16x3/8 studs for mounting the rockers, and pushrod guideplates. Also make sure you use hardened pushrods. Only get the comp cams guideplates, the fake crane cams knockoffs out there with the plastic guide is garbage, the plastic guide don't last long and ends up in the oil pan. I can supply model numbers if you go that route.

FOR SALE: I have brand new set of high strength Hughes beehive valve springs, keepers, retainers that were never used from when I was going to install my cam, I ended up getting new loaded heads instead. Let me know if you want them. Give you a killer deal.

It is not recommended using the stock 2 piece valves on a high lift cam with stronger springs, possibility of the valve separating resulting with a dropped valve.

 

Yeah those are the right ones. I got mine from Odessa cylinder head though. I think any of the heads that say new thicker casting are from Enginequest.

 

Okay, I'm without a doubt going to go with stronger springs, not too sure on which ones, I have to talk to the guy I brought my heads to.
Just good to know, .545 is the absolute MAX I can go. Not that I feel too comfortable with going close to that, lol.