5.2 to 5.9, with an auto to manual Swap to boot.
Maybe some other members can chime in on whether to use adjustable rollers or fixed. If it's not a stock cam then it's a custom grind. Might be safe with fixed 1.6 with your cam if you were only replacing the cam, but you also need to consider the difference in height of your new heads, gasket thickness, and new pushrod length difference. Using adjustables gives you peace of mind and a little insurance from possible damage.
My cam was cut for use with 1.7 rockers. I built my motor using fixed HS 1.7 rockers but the valves did not close completely, it overheated the #3 exhaust valve guide causing a stuck valve, bent pushrod, and busted lifter.
Ended up costing me an extra $900 to repair, and that's me doing the work. Would have gladly paid the extra $150 for adjustable rockers, studs, and guide plates if I'd known better.
There are 2 types of HS adjustable rockers, pedestal mount with the adjuster over the pushrod, and Stud mount with the adjuster centered on the stud. Both will require cutting or drilling of the stock valve cover baffle. For stud mount type rockers you will need to buy the 5/16x3/8 studs for mounting the rockers, and pushrod guideplates. Also make sure you use hardened pushrods. Only get the comp cams guideplates, the fake crane cams knockoffs out there with the plastic guide is garbage, the plastic guide don't last long and ends up in the oil pan. I can supply model numbers if you go that route.
FOR SALE: I have brand new set of high strength Hughes beehive valve springs, keepers, retainers that were never used from when I was going to install my cam, I ended up getting new loaded heads instead. Let me know if you want them. Give you a killer deal.
It is not recommended using the stock 2 piece valves on a high lift cam with stronger springs, possibility of the valve separating resulting with a dropped valve.
My cam was cut for use with 1.7 rockers. I built my motor using fixed HS 1.7 rockers but the valves did not close completely, it overheated the #3 exhaust valve guide causing a stuck valve, bent pushrod, and busted lifter.
Ended up costing me an extra $900 to repair, and that's me doing the work. Would have gladly paid the extra $150 for adjustable rockers, studs, and guide plates if I'd known better.
There are 2 types of HS adjustable rockers, pedestal mount with the adjuster over the pushrod, and Stud mount with the adjuster centered on the stud. Both will require cutting or drilling of the stock valve cover baffle. For stud mount type rockers you will need to buy the 5/16x3/8 studs for mounting the rockers, and pushrod guideplates. Also make sure you use hardened pushrods. Only get the comp cams guideplates, the fake crane cams knockoffs out there with the plastic guide is garbage, the plastic guide don't last long and ends up in the oil pan. I can supply model numbers if you go that route.
FOR SALE: I have brand new set of high strength Hughes beehive valve springs, keepers, retainers that were never used from when I was going to install my cam, I ended up getting new loaded heads instead. Let me know if you want them. Give you a killer deal.
It is not recommended using the stock 2 piece valves on a high lift cam with stronger springs, possibility of the valve separating resulting with a dropped valve.
Now those beehives, don't they only support up to .480?
Do you suggest any type of different valve instead of the stock 2-piece?
Okay thanks! They don't really seem to expensive to be honest. I mean they are a bare head, but I'd have to price out some valves and springs. I don't think they could run me more than $1000 for a pair of heads there. They seem to be like the highest flowing around.
^That's what I did. They will match spring pressure to your specific cam lift. By the time you've paid for a valve job, bare heads, valves, springs you'll be in the same ball park. Mine were $950 pair for the 2.02 heads. If you do build your own, get the valves that Clearwater Cylinder Head recommends for them, but specify that you want solid one piece valves.
Last edited by beeker; Jan 23, 2015 at 02:11 AM.
Oh okay that really doesn't seem too bad, do you know the flow rate for odessa heads by chance? I'm just courious as to what they would be compared to EQ heads with the 62cc combustion chamber.
^That's what I did. They will match spring pressure to your specific cam lift. By the time you've paid for a valve job, bare heads, valves, springs you'll be in the same ball park. Mine were $950 pair for the 2.02 heads. If you do build your own, get the valves that Clearwater Cylinder Head recommends for them, but specify that you want solid one piece valves.
I'm starting to make a list of things I want in my head I want;
-Springs to match cam
-2.02 valves
-Stainless 1-piece valves
If I'm missing anything please let me know.
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The 2.02 heads that Odessa sales are the EQ heads. I bought a pair of the 2.02 heads from Odessa, with beehive springs and 1 piece valves. They were EQ heads. I called them up when I ordered them, told them what I wanted, and what cam I have and they matched the springs to the cam. They run $880 shipped.
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Hmm those do sound intriguing to me! This wouldn't be what you are talking about is it? (http://www.aamidwest.com/enginequest...r-magnum-head/
Okay definitely sounds good to me, 1.6 it is definitely!
I definitely have plans for some Full-Length long tube headers to get that full scavenging effect. I've heard of clearance issues with the front driveshaft with Pacesetter long tubes, but I'm sure I can make it work!
The only thing I'm on the fence about it either if I want to a y-pipe or true duals. I heard pratically anything over the stock "crappy" y-pipe I'll gain some power.
Okay definitely sounds good to me, 1.6 it is definitely!
I definitely have plans for some Full-Length long tube headers to get that full scavenging effect. I've heard of clearance issues with the front driveshaft with Pacesetter long tubes, but I'm sure I can make it work!
The only thing I'm on the fence about it either if I want to a y-pipe or true duals. I heard pratically anything over the stock "crappy" y-pipe I'll gain some power.
The 2.02 heads that Odessa sales are the EQ heads. I bought a pair of the 2.02 heads from Odessa, with beehive springs and 1 piece valves. They were EQ heads. I called them up when I ordered them, told them what I wanted, and what cam I have and they matched the springs to the cam. They run $880 shipped.
You're right, thanks for pointing that out, looks like I'll just be placeing a phone call.