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Dot to dot (12 crank & 6 timing gear) is used just for the visual aspect of getting things lined up, I do dot to dot then turn the crank 360 degrees this puts me at tdc #1 (both dots at 12)no messing around.
Edit to add; Starter drive could be jammed, tq bolts like posted.
Last edited by merc225hp; Dec 16, 2014 at 02:39 PM.
The problem with the stuck crank seems to be the flexplate. This is the damage that happened while trying to break the crank bolt at the damper:
I can't see exactly where it's getting stuck, but every time that hole makes its way to the top, the crank gets stuck.
To make sure that was the problem, I got the trusty Dremel out and ground it down a bit. Looks like this now:
It's still not perfectly rounded, but it's down enough for the crank to spin all the way around without applying unnecessary force.
I still hear a slight clink, though, every time it passes the spot where it had been getting stuck.
I'm not sure what the next best step is. At this point, the heads are still removed, along with the starter and just about everything up front -fan, alt, compressor, etc.
My inexperience is about to show again, but I'm curious about what exactly this was getting caught on. Is there something that engages these holes as it approaches the cam? Is it hitting a piece of the block inside?
What kind of damage could I cause by running it with this hole this way? (If it is safe to run it, I'd like to grind it down just a bit more to try to eliminate whatever contact it's making that's causing the sight clink.)
Or, is the only safe option here to replace the driveplate? I don't have what I need to drop the tranny, so if that's my only option, I'll get everything put back together and get it in a shop so the experts can take it from there.
My concern about grinding it down is putting it out of balance. I know the 5.2s are balanced internally, but I wonder if grinding on the flexplate will throw it out of balance. I have the 5.9(same block), and it's externally balanced.
Your plate shouldn't be hitting anything like the block, but I am curious what your Crank Position Sensor looks like, it should be the only thing close to it and those holes. Here is a picture of what the back side of your engine looks like without the flexplate. So the Crankshaft Position Sensor is the only thing anywhere near it.
By the way, I see that you are in Lexington, Ky. I'm in Louisville, Ky, and I used to live in Shelbyville. When I was in Shelbyville, I had a shop do some work for me, A-1 Transmission in Frankfort. The owner's name is Donny White, and the cost was pretty reasonable. It's a hole in the wall independent shop, but you might check it out.
The deformed hole is probably hitting the crank sensor........ it's sits pretty friggin' close in any event, and that one is deformed enough that it is probably making contact.
Straighten it with a hammer, or whatnot. Get back as close to stock shape as you can, see if the motor will turn then.
By the way, I see that you are in Lexington, Ky. I'm in Louisville, Ky, and I used to live in Shelbyville. When I was in Shelbyville, I had a shop do some work for me, A-1 Transmission in Frankfort. The owner's name is Donny White, and the cost was pretty reasonable. It's a hole in the wall independent shop, but you might check it out.
Thanks. If I get it running well enough to drive it to Frankfort, I'll check them out.
The info about the crank sensor makes perfect sense. Thanks. I would say that's exactly where I was getting stuck.
I'll see if I can take a little more off the bump in the flexplate and see how it turns. I'll drive it or tow it in after I get everything put back together and have the flexplate replaced to be safe.
Glad that was it. Nothing else made sense, since the heads are off the motor. If you can gently hammer out the imperfection and get that deformed opening back to what it was, you should be fine. I believe the crank sensor is triggered by each of the openings/windows in the flexplate.
That window is indeed the ckps trigger, I would say the ckps is toast and should be replaced I would also be replacing the flexplate. But it might just run fine.
Tdc at cylinder one should be crank at 12 and cam at 12 with dizzy pointing to one.
Looks like someone has been in there before.
There should be no reason the crank won't turn over. How much force are you applying?
Man I am so glad I read this finally a freaking answer to my questions cause I put in a new chain on my 5.2 and it ain't starting because I put cam gear at six o clock and it will not point to number one until I turn it to twelve o clock I've been reading all the wrong answers and screwed up now back to work thank you