First off I tried to search for EGR but it seems 3 letter words aren't allowed?

I have a 95 with 5.9, found one of the studs broken off EGR tube mount, nearly flush with the exhaust manifold. The manifold is off, but I've had no luck getting the broken stud out. Tried easy outs which broke, then welding a nut to the stud, but cheap HF welder is getting poor penetration.

Just wondering if I can just find a tap for the EGR hole on the exhaust, make threads and plug it up, and plug up the intake. But leave EGR valve connected to wiring. Will I get a code if I do this?

 

Yes, you will. The computer expects to see changes in engine behavior when it opens the EGR valve. Also, EGR was pretty much designed to help cool the combustion chamber... (by introducing hot gases? Really?) so the computer can run a bit more timing, if the computer thinks egr is working, and in reality, it isn't, you can run into some pretty hefty spark knock. Not really good for your engine.

Might try calling around to local wrecking yards, and see if you can't source a replacement manifold.

 

i had a similar problem once before i put the Air Gap on, i cut the tube for the egr welded it shut, and left it hooked up to the wiring, but now with the Air Gap it doesnot have the spot for the egr at all, so i just cut the wiring and tied the 2 wires together, check engine light never comes on, cant hear any spark knock, but i also had my fuel sync adjusted for my setup also so that may of made a difference.

 

I tried welding about a dozen more nuts on and same thing, so I tried welding a series of small washers on, eventually I built op enough metal to grab with vice grips and got it off. Took hours.

Now I have a problem that I can't find the right bolt to go in, I have tons of metric and standard bolts but none is quite right, even ones that look right won't fit. I could go to the dealer but they are just bolts, anyone know what diameter, length, pitch, strength, the bolts have?

 

Do you have one that fits good in the other hole? If so, get a bottoming tap of the appropriate size, and run it into the other hole.

 

ya mine is blocked off

 

+3 deleted mine when i had a 94 and no spark knock or cel. Doing trumps reading every time. posting some pictures would help with the bolt extraction.

 

I just broke down and got bolts from the stealer. Glad I did, they are weird bolts with 3/8" heads, and the ones that busted when coming off were obviously the wrong bolts and probably could not handle the heat.

After putting it back together I got a code 32 (EGR) just the thing I wanted to avoid. I hope it's just a vacuum hose or something.

 

OK, the EGR electric solenoid was resting against the EGR tube and was melted, probably caused the code. all those tubes, wires and the solenoid are just dangling back there, someone must have removed whatever holds all that stuff up off of the engine. I got a replacement solenoid and am tying all the wires up with zip ties for now.

 

The new EGR thing (called EGR back pressure transducer) has also melted. There is no code this time though. Problem was a clogged cat, pushing hot exhaust into the back pressure transducer and destroying it. Cat problem has been corrected and truck gained some lost power but still not 100%.

I read that when EGR valve does not get vacuum on these it is on all the time (is this true?) so I had the bright idea to just run a vacuum line directly to EGR, seems like the easiest way to delete EGR and not waste any mor money on it, problem is, I basically got a vacuum leak when I did. Does this mean my EGR valve is fried too or just can't handle full manifold vacuum?