I have an extra tps and I'll put that on tonight but I think it's probably more than that due to the gas in the oil and I'm not getting spark to cylinder number 1.

 

I agree , I think there is a good chance of multiple issues here .

New Coil , Cap , Rotor . Still no spark at #1 . Have you tried swapping a different plug wire on the cap at #1 to confirm the wires are good ? Didn't notice mentioning new ones .

Hopefully the TPS will fix the gas pedal response but it's really just a shot in the dark right now .

See how that goes , next step would be a proper fuel pressure test . 20lbs will seem like loads opening the valve but , it's not the 40ish it calls for . A leak down test would confirm a leaky injector , and a flow test would confirm delivery in the proper amount . Modern vehicles simply do not like being starved for fuel . I would also rate a fuel pump as a common issue .

 

I swapped wires and the #1 is bad so I'll get new wires and change the oil. Is a fuel pressure tester something that you could rent from O'Reilly? What spark plugs would you run? I'm using auto lite platinum. I'm going to this weekend pull the rails and injectors and check for leaks. Need a new ground wire for my multimeter as the tips broke off. I've heard injector resistance should be between 7 and 13 ohms but should be compared to the others.

 

Just good with some good copper plugs. Our engines don't necessarily care for the rare-earth fellers.

O'Reilly should have the fuel pressure gauge available.

 

Test injectors by removing rail and injectors and checking for leaks with key on? Anybody know a better way?

 

Have you tried just looking for washed spark plugs ? If your leaking , you should see a clean washed plug . I'd pull all and compare before embarking on your test . You will need new seals if you pull them , not recommended to reuse them . It would be nice to do a leak down test . This would confirm a leaky injector IMO and then warrant further evasive testing .

Trying to chase down a possible fuel issue without a gauge is like trying to shoot a Moose with a slingshot . With the right tool , it's quick and less painful .

 

I'm going to O'Reilly today I'll get new plug wires rent fuel pressure tester, leak down tester, and gets new oil and filter. Should be finished this weekend on that.

 

New spark plugs auto lite copper .035 gap new plug wires. Still a code 25 any way to test the iac/pcm. Haven't changed oil yet but my oil sending unit is broke off I noticed so that's why there is no oil problem codes? Sounds noticeably stronger but there is a pinging and gas reaction is better but not good. Still won't pull itself when put in gear.

 

PCM doesn't know squat about oil pressure, so, it doesn't care. You could lose all oil pressure completely, and the PCM would still happily run the motor right up to when it blew up.

Code 25 is telling you there is a short in the IAC wiring. If you changed the IAC, and still get the same code, time to trace the wires. Might have gotten pinched somewhere.

 

Is there a way to test for power at the connector. I've got power at 1 pin. Should all 4 have power? Should I test for power right out of the pcm to test for a wiring related problem?