My 94 ram has a problem where it starts and runs on like 2 cylinders and doesn't react to the gas. The oil is extremely diluted with gas but would like to get it firing on all cylinders before changing the oil. I had a code 25 for iac and reset the computer retried and it still had it. It's got a new iac crank sensor cam sensor coil cap and rotor (and yes the plug wires are on right) and I cleaned the plugs which were extremely black and smelled like carbon and I'm just kind of lost at this point. The weird thing is that it was running fine one day and I turned it off and it wouldn't start. It wouldn't the next day either. Now it starts hard and is backfiring a lot and the gas has no reaction to the engine. Thinking pcm?

 

Could be your fuel pump is not building enough pressure. Put a gauge on it. Have you had your plenum gasket fixed? If it has any codes let us know.
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/OBDI/pcm_fault_code.htm

 

Given the gas in his oil, wonder if he has a bad temp sensor, or an injector or three stuck open.

 

I seem to be getting a weak spark out of coil but I also seem to be getting weak voltage on the electrical connector to the coil when cranking is first started it goes to 10 volts for a second then drops to 1 and kind of fluctuates.

 

Yes it has a code 25 but I've replaced the iac. Reset the computer and it's still there.

 

The issue could be in the wiring or the connectors. You may have to take off the battery terminals and touch them together to remove the code. Sometimes just disconnecting the battery don't remove the old code. I don't think your problem is with spark but fuel. You replaced everything in the ignition and it will run so it's getting spark. Check the fuel pressure to rule that out. Could be a bad tps also.

 

It seems to have good fuel pressure on the rail. How do I check for ohms on the injectors with a multimeter? It seems constantly flooded..

 

If you're measuring the switched side with a voltmeter, that's perfectly normal as the signal there is pulsating DC.

For the injector questions, a noid light might be the answer. An oscilloscope would be better, if you know how to work one, but the noid might give useful information.

 

Noid light will tell you if the PCM is triggering the injector. To test resistance across the injector, unplug the electrical connector, set your meter on like 20 ohms (or close to that) and put one probe on each pin on the injector.

 

I wouldn't wait , just drain the oil and refill with the cheapest out there . It will help remove most gas when you do your proper oil change . Consider it a flush of sorts .

I'd stethoscope the injector to make sure they are clicking properly , sure does sound like one or more are stuck . Even one will drop a load of gas .

Fuel pressure . You really need this confirmed . Pressure , flow and leak down , all doable with a proper gauge .

Moparite mentioned the throttle position sensor . I broke one in during an engine swap and never noticed till it fired up . It did backfire through the TB a few pops and no gas pedal reaction . You can test it before tossing another part . I'm sure someone has a youtube video showing how if you need it . I think if you back fired through your exhaust , it would be simply from the fuel dump . Had this happen to me also , it blew out my new cat at the time . Came from a no start in which my wife just kept cranking over and over . When I fixed it (loose wire on MSD box) it fired right up , 2 seconds later , boom . So yeah , odds are , you have gas in your exhaust also