It was mounted on the frame and looked like the old style generators in shape and size but had lines going into it. Correct me if I'm wrong 2 pins should have power at the fuel pump connector and 2 are a ground. Gonna take bed off if the pump is getting power. Has a brake line rusted through above tank and I'll want to put a new fuel filter in it.

 

If you are going to all the trouble of changing the filter, (not to mention the expense) spend a bit more, and just replace the whole thing. Do it once, do it right, don't worry about it again.

 

Do not get an Airtex pump. About a six month life span. Denso or Delphi for your Dodge

 

I'm waiting on doing a proper fuel test. (Borrowing tools suck). But I know I'm getting good power on the relay box and the relay has good resistance. How do you unplug the connector to the fuel pump? I've tried but I can't find the catch that's holding it i would like to check for power. I'm doing this myself so there is no expense you are talking about. The bed will come off with a tractor maybe the same with the engine if it ends up needing new piston rings.

 

Should be a catch right on the top...... there might be a lock in it as well..... Trouble is, ya gotta be able to see if there is.

 

I got the connector unplugged and 1 pin has power with 8 volts. This does not sound right to me. I thought 2 should have power and it should have 12 volts? Any connections anyone would recommend to check? Common places for wires to rub and short? I think pcm has nothing to do with fuel pump it is just set to deliver certain pressure?

 

Fuel pump will only have voltage for about 3 seconds when the key is turned on, PCM controls the relay..... if it doesn't see the engine turning, it will shut off the pump. Really takes two people to test that...

8 volts is too low...... I suspect thats for the gauge though......

 

You can check it if you run a long wire to the connecter and can see the meter from the cab. Could by pass the relay also. Make sure you checking the power(+) wire going to the pump and not one of the others.

 

It still seems like it is not running on all cylinders it idles at 200 to 300 rpm and when I pin it it sends white smoke from the throttle body and or the crankcase breather and it has a unique smell and it will sting your eyes if you try to watch it to long. It also has a strong sucking noise but had that when it was running decent. The previous owner put a different engine in it and he couldn't figure out why it would run fine for 10-15 minutes of driving then stall and wouldn't start for 30 minutes to an hour. When I got it it seemed to run rich idling at 1000 to 1200 rpm and having a strong gas smell. This makes me think timing but how could the timing be wrong when it's computer controlled. I guess compression test next even though it was good when I got.

 

That begins to sound a lot like a blown headgasket.....