Timing off
Yeah, just hold the coil wire a bit above the distributor cap, so you can see the connector there, and have someone crank the engine. You should be able to see/hear the spark. (I would NOT recommend holding it with your fingers though, you may test spark by getting yourself a serious jolt. Don't ask me how I know this.)
OK... Checked for spark at the distributor cap. I could not see or hear a spark. While I was there, I double checked the electrical connections and everything appears tight and secure. I then pulled the plug off the ignition coil and did the same thing. I could not see or hear a spark. Put a volt meter on it and it maxed out (not surprised 1000V max meter).
Checked resistance on the ignition coil... 1.1-1.2 ohms primary and 8.18 k-ohms secondary. The primary is within range according to the manual but the secondary is low. Apparently there are 2 different manufacturers, Diamond (11.3 k-ohms to 15.3 k-ohms) and Toyodenso (11.3 k-ohms to 13.3 k-ohms). I'm note sure which one I have, I could not find it labeled. Regardless 8.18 k-ohms is low but is it too low?.
Checked resistance on the ignition coil... 1.1-1.2 ohms primary and 8.18 k-ohms secondary. The primary is within range according to the manual but the secondary is low. Apparently there are 2 different manufacturers, Diamond (11.3 k-ohms to 15.3 k-ohms) and Toyodenso (11.3 k-ohms to 13.3 k-ohms). I'm note sure which one I have, I could not find it labeled. Regardless 8.18 k-ohms is low but is it too low?.
Here's a thought, did you TDC cyl 1 or 6? Cause you stated you TDCed cyl 1 when Heyyou gave you instructions for TDC cyl 6.
1. Turn crankshaft around until compression stroke on cylinder 1 with timing mark at 12 o'clock.
2. Turn camshaft around so timing mark is at 6 o'clock with rotor pointing to 6.
3. Install timing chain.
4. Turn crankshaft 360°, rotor points to 1.
Am I off 180°?
Shouldn't be. I think you did it correctly. Even if you hadn't, that would not give you a no spark condition.
Having power at the coil is only half the battle. Need to know if the PCM is actually trying to fire the coil. That's what the test light test is for.
Having power at the coil is only half the battle. Need to know if the PCM is actually trying to fire the coil. That's what the test light test is for.
As Moparite has here for you, dot to dot lined up, #1 cylinder Top Dead Center, Valves for #1 cylinder are to be closed completely, install gears and chain. now if you had removed the distributor and oil drive gear from the cam, the drive gear has to be in the correct place in order for you to put the distributor back in the correct place, There is a slot on the top of drive gear the distributor fits into. You can be a tooth off and you can rotate the distributor to the correct spot for number one cylinder the rotor must point to #1 cylinder marked in the casing of distributor. Now #1 cylinder mark in the casing of distributor should be pointing straight down the middle of the engine pointing towards the plenum
I want to thank all of you for your help. I know a lot of my questions seem like I may not have a clue, and to be honest, I don't. I can turn a wrench and repair/replace about anything, but when it comes to troubleshooting I'm clueless.
As Moparite has here for you, dot to dot lined up, #1 cylinder Top Dead Center, Valves for #1 cylinder are to be closed completely, install gears and chain. now if you had removed the distributor and oil drive gear from the cam, the drive gear has to be in the correct place in order for you to put the distributor back in the correct place, There is a slot on the top of drive gear the distributor fits into. You can be a tooth off and you can rotate the distributor to the correct spot for number one cylinder the rotor must point to #1 cylinder marked in the casing of distributor. Now #1 cylinder mark in the casing of distributor should be pointing straight down the middle of the engine pointing towards the plenum







