When it's time to change my oil or if my truck ever gets a quart low I'm gonna dump a quart of mmo down in it, a good old trick that I guess works if you do it right and be careful doing it is get your engine up to operating temperature and pull the air cleaner off, hold it at about 2k rpm and dribble water down in it, maybe I didn't do it right though but I didn't see any steam come out the exhaust or any sign of anything happening but I ran 40ml through it and it seems like nothing happened

 

If Dexron-III is cheaper, use that instead. It works the same. All you're interested in is the solvent.

Dribbling water into one of our stock intake manifolds mostly just wets the plenum pan. A spray bottle that produces a not too splotchy mist works better on our rigs, and I'd say less dangerously on all vehicles. That said, now that there are combustion chamber cleaners on the market that actually work it's much better to use one of them. It's much less likely to crack pistons or cause flying chunks of carbon to smash spark plugs and/or hang valves open. I've seen cracked pistons run for thousands of miles before coming untogether, and one of 'em was mine so I've been a mite twitchy about it ever since. (No, I didn't put the water that cracked that piston in there on purpose!)

 

I have a gallon of mmo, I run nitro rc cars and since the fuel is hygroscopic I use it as after run oil also to prevent the castor oil from gumming things up

20ml of the bottle I used the mister (it was a old Windex bottle or something in that nature) and I tell ya, my fingers have abs now lol with the Bluetooth obd2 scanner app I could watch the intake temperature drop though so it was kinda neat

I was thinking about using mopar combustion cleaner

 

What does this do, flush the engine out?

 

Oh yeah, it flushes it out alright. It's the only way I know to get all of the trash out of hydraulic lifters. And find leaks that were plugged with sludge, too, which can be an unpleasant surprise if that wasn't your goal.

The trick is to not run the engine at more than about 1500RPM while the diesel/ATF is in there, primarily due to the fact that the lifters will be bleeding rapidly and that's exactly what we want them to do because that's what enables them to pump the trash out. You don't really want to start the valve train to hammering needlessly by spooling the thing up. The usual method is to let the thing idle for half an hour or so, a bit longer if it's still clattering at you, then run it up to fast idle for another 15 minutes to half an hour so the diesel/ATF is flowing faster. If it's still clattering at 45 minutes you'll be replacing lifters (in an engine that really wants to be rebuilt anyway), but in almost every case in which the engine's not praying for the relief of death before you get to it everything will be just fine.

After the cleaning, change the filter and oil, go 500 miles or so, then do the oil and filter change again. After that it's squeaky clean smooth sailing, at least as far as internal cleanliness goes.

If your truck, your body, your house, and your loved ones all get blowed up by doing something as stupid as running diesel fuel in the crankcase it's your own darn fault.

But seriously now, though it just feels all the way to the bone like it's a dangerous operation I've never known of a Very Bad Thing being the result of it. It either works just fine as it does in almost every case, or you're looking at an engine that wants new parts.

 

Now I heard the mmo in your old oil (oil currently in engine) worked pretty well just run it for a little bit before you change your oil, it won't squeaky clean everything but it will get your lifters cleaned out and all that fun stuff withough worrying about blowing up. Lol

I know people that have drove with a quart of mmo for over 500 miles

 

The same thing is said about seafoam...

 

I don't like seafoam

 

Just sayin'.

I could not offer an opinion one way or the other.

 

I messed an engine up once with seafoam, I stuck to the directions for the most part, put 1/3 in the tank, sucked 1/3 down the vacume line to the brake booster, shut it off and forgot about it, came out the next morning started it up to burn all the gunk out watched the smoke transition from white to blue, car would drink a quart or more between fill ups and it was a little 1.8. It dropped compression bad and just ran like crap, turns out you know it's not seafoams fault but mine, seafoam cleaned it, and cleaned it real good but some of the buildup was keeping it together. Whoops


Not sure how I feel about seafoam in my oil though..