Hello All,

I have a 1994 1500, 5.9, with a 46RH tranny. It quit on me and when I got into it I found the front pump and converter had failed. The rest of the tranny, clutches, seals and ect were fine. No burning or bushing problems. So, I did a complete overhaul, including bands. When I started it up, it stopped the motor twice from an idle. I initially thought it was just the motor. But, as I found out, the front planetarys were seizing up. I assumed that they had a problem that I did not catch when I disassembled it. The hub actually sheared off the splines on the intermediate shaft as well and the individual planetary gears seized onto there respective shafts. But, after replacing the intermediate shaft and the front plantetarys, it happened again. This time it did not try to stall the engine on start up, but within a few miles the same thing happened. The only difference is I caught it before it spun on the intermediate shaft. What I have done:

:I checked the end clearance to ensure it was OK.
:I set the bands to 72 inch pounds and backed off 2 turns on front and 2 1/2 on the back.
:I checked the clutch packs, on the intermediate shaft, with air pressure to make sure they were engaging properly.

I am at a loss here. One thing that I did notice that was odd, the intermediate shaft during both failures showed discoloring at the snap ring end where the forward planetary slides on. Where this heat build up came from I am not sure. It may have been from the planetarys failing or it may have been the source of the problem. Any ideas?

Brian

 

Is there a one-way clutch in there as well? Was it installed backwards?

 

That's the first thing I thought of. I think it is correct. Facing the hub it should turn clockwise and lock up counter clockwise. Would you agree?

 

On that, I do not know. Everything I know about automatic transmissions is written on the inside of my left eyelid..... Do you have a service manual? You can find one here.

 

I hope it is that simple. I'll dig into it deeper after I look at the manual and report back on Monday. Thanks!

 

Probably no fluid is flowing through the cooler and the planets are simply running dry causing planet meltdown.......

 

looking at VB opening up, it locks in counterclock. Even if I am remembering wrong, you can't really put the Sprag ( AKA 14 ROLLER ONE WAY overrun clutch) in backwards because there is a mildly fluted edge.

It will not go in at all if the lip is not matching up to the fluted edging where it seats in the back of the main case. My case detonate due to an oversight or failed circlip that holds that planet and annulus fast to the intermediate shaft. Everything I guess walked forward the sprag exploded and rollers wedged were the didn't fit until it locked the sprag support liner hard to the annulus/reverse drum in the case and 'slpoded the case.

 

I doubt it's the over running clutch. Usually when they go you won't get drive or weak if any. Not sure if this will help but it will show all the components.

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...g-pdf/A518.pdf

 

Hey Everyone,

I think I may have found the issue. I have read posts on this before but I did not fully comprehend its application to what I am doing. Both intermediate shaft bushing by the forward planetary surfaces are tarnished from heat, but the rest of the transmission is fine. I think it is obvious it is a lubrication problem. After tracing the oil supply holes in the intermediate shaft I found that the bushings on the shaft are supplied with lubrication from the return line of the cooler. Also, there is a hole in the sun gear by that same hole that supplies oil to the bushings that also supplies lubrication to the forward planetarys. At this point it seems obvious that the cooler and/or the inline check valve are plugged. I should know more tomorrow after an inspection. Below is a very informative post I found. Thanks!

Warning for all Dodge Rear Wheel Drive Overdrive Transmissions Except 45RFE

#1. On Dodge 1994 up RWD transmissions the check ball in the cooling line is bad about sticking or becoming clogged especially after a transmission failure. This can happen even if you flush the transmission cooling system causing overheating or even a second transmission failure. The cooler line we're talking about is the return line on the bottom right of the radiator. All of the above information doesn't apply to the Dodge Hemi. We sell the parts to replace this cooling line without the check ball. Chrysler no longer makes this cooling line. You can only buy the whole set of high dollar cooling lines from them. This cooling line should be replaced after a major transmission failure.

#2. The transmission cooler in the radiator looks like a filter inside. It should always be replaced after a transmission failure. You can have a radiator shop install a new transmission cooler in your radiator. The problem here is it can't be flushed clean even with a power flusher. You can be fooled here, it will appear to be flowing good and after 1/2 hour of driving it will quit flowing fluid. This will not only overheat the transmission but will stop the fluid (oil) flow to the gears and bearings causing a total melt down.We have seen people go through as many as four transmissions before the problem was found.

 

Yep, check out the check-valve delete threads...