Great! These trucks are finicky. Your old relay didn't like the new lights even with the load resistor. Just like having to use mopar sensors.

 

You shouldn't have to be doing any of this. I assume your OEM lights worked perfectly before these. The LED lights should have come with the necessary circuitry to make them operate properly. I bought some for my Dakota and each light had a box with the necessary circuitry, which I attached to the back of the light with double-side tape. When I first installed them, they used to hyper flash. I contacted the seller and got no answer. I then posted a bad review and they sent out the proper circuit boxes. Soon as I installed them, the lights began flashing properly and have ever since. If LMC won't fix the problem, return them and get something else.

 

Get an electronic flasher and ditch the resistors. If you would have gotten the flasher in the first place you wouldn't have had the problem. The people who sell this stuff should explain things to people.

PSA! If you install led turn signal lights get an electronic flasher! Even with the resistor sometime the old amp flow style flashers won't work right. Also If you use resistors you are wasting power. Why do it?

 

Now, that is something that I have never understood, other than the look, with the load resistors, you're not saving anything nor lowering amp loads.

 

I guess if you have a big enough alternator it doesn't matter. Towing a trailer at night with the ac on high along with the electric cooing fans going that can add up.

 

I put in LED's to cut the load through the light switch.

 

The only thing that bugs me about the setup right now is that when the light goes out I will not know it. When I switched from the 224 relay to the 552 relay, it stopped noticing the light was out. i tested this. so on the old relay, if the bulb was unplugged, the flasher would not flash and the dash indicator would just stay solid lit. Now with the new relay, it blinks whether the bulb is good or bad. Why is that? Do you know what the original relay number is, was it 224 or 552?

I'm thinking the bigger 552 relay is the problem like the system can't see the bulb missing because of the load difference. So if I go back to the 224, I would most likely have to remove the resistor maybe, i dunno...

 

None of the electronic relays will not let you "know" when a bulb is out (and since they are LED's, that's not often), since they do not flash off of the current load. They just do their thing regardless of whether a light/load is on it or not.

 

So what makes that feature work then? OEM relay they stop blinking and you get the solid green arrow in the direction of the problem bulb(front or rear). With new relay in(even with OEM style tail lights installed) the warning solid green light doesn't work, it just blinks as though nothing is wrong.

 

It's because of the way the relays work. The older style, are a thermal trip type. The circuit gets hot, because of the load, and breaks the circuit. With a burnt bulb, there isn't enough current draw for it to heat up enough to trip.

The electronic switch doesn't care if there is a load or not, it simply doesn't matter, it will open/close the circuit regardless.