This is from the 2001 Service Manual that I downloaded. There is an illustration that I can't seem to copy over to here. Found it online.

INSTALLATION - 8.0L
Replacing With a New Sensor
(1) Apply a small amount of engine oil to the sensor
o-ring (Fig. 14).
A low and high area are machined into the camshaft
drive gear (Fig. 15). The sensor is positioned in
the timing gear cover so that a small air gap (Fig.
15) exists between the face of sensor and the high
machined area of cam gear.
Before the sensor is installed, the cam gear may
have to be rotated. This is to allow the high
machined area on the gear to be directly in front of
the sensor mounting hole opening on the timing gear
cover.
Do not install sensor with gear positioned at
low area (Fig. 16) or (Fig. 15). When the engine
is started, the sensor will be broken.
(2) Using a 1/2 in. wide metal ruler, measure the
distance from the cam gear to the face of the sensor
mounting hole opening on the timing gear cover (Fig.
16).
(3) If the dimension is approximately 1.818 inches,
it is OK to install sensor. Proceed to step Step 9.
(4) If the dimension is approximately 2.018 inches,
the cam gear will have to be rotated.
(5) Attach a socket to the vibration damper mounting
bolt and rotate engine until the 1.818 inch
dimension is attained.
(6) Install the sensor into the timing case/cover
with a slight rocking action. Do not twist the sensor
into position as damage to the o-ring may result.
Push the sensor all the way into the cover until the
rib material on the sensor (Fig. 13) contacts the camshaft
gear.
(7) Install the mounting bolt and tighten to 6 N·m
(50 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Connect sensor wiring harness to engine harness.
When the engine is started, the rib material will be
sheared off the face of sensor. This will automatically
set sensor air gap.

 

ok, I found it in my 96' manual. Yup, I did it wrong, just slammed that baby in there. It broke.........just like the manual said it would. I just ordered one off ebay as (no surprise) the part is discontinued and I can't get one locally. I was hoping to be starting her up today, gonna have to wait till Friday

 

Got the camshaft position sensor today. Put it in fired her up and what do ya know? I have beautiful oil pressure again. 40 psi at idle and a bit above while cruising. All because of a couple of loose screws on the rotor retaining plate. The small oil leak coming out of what was almost a brand new crankshaft seal seems to have stopped since I replaced it again with the one that came with the timing cover gasket. They were different part numbers though they looked almost the same. Now I have a new oil leak...lol...think it's from my oil pan...I reused the gasket, possibly some grit settled on there when I put it back together. Such is life, gonna have to drop the oil pan again..possibly.

 

Glad you got it back up and running with good pressure.

Mine has about 40 psi all the time, hot or cold, idling or running down the road doesn't seem to change the needle position. Always just touching the bottom of the 40 mark on the gauge.

 

I replaced the oil pan gasket yesterday. I'm good there no leaking. But I'm leaking through the crankshaft seal again but worse than before. I replaced it a couple of months ago (with the timing cover still attached), the harmonic balancer was grooved so I put a repair sleeve on it. It went on real nice. However the new seal leaked, just not near as bad. Almost no dripping in between oil changes. This time when I had to pull the timing cover I figured I would replace it again since I was there. I used the seal that came with the timing cover gasket, it was a different part number than the national seal I had used before. Now it leaks probably just as bad as it did before the first time I replaced it. I just can't get this thing to stop leaking oil. Any ideas?

 

Probably the new seal was designed to be used on a non-modified balancer. (no repair sleeve) The larger shaft probably ate it up pretty quickly.

You could try installing the correct part number seal, and see if that works. Or, replace the seal AND the balancer, and call it a day.

 

As far as I know I put in the correct part number seal (Unless there is a different part number for a balancer with a repair sleeve). If you call up an auto parts store and ask for the seal they will give you a national seal part number bla bla bla. But the seal that comes with the timing cover gasket is a different part number, they both look the same. I have tried them both, and they both leak. That being said, when I removed the old seal this last time it wasn't chewed up at all it looked great, same deal the time before that. They only difference is the time before that I bent the seal during installation and thought that was why it was leaking, so really I have replaced the thing 3 times now. I'm just leery about dumping $400.00 on a new balancer and seal, afraid it will still leak.

 

I would take a real close look at the repair sleeve. I never really had much success with them going on square, without wrinkles.... and that will prevent it from sealing....

Did you grease the seal before installation?

 

The repair sleeve is perfectly smooth. The last time I did the seal I put grease on it before installation and this time I rubbed a good amount of oil on it before installation. Could the timing cover be a little off since there are no alignment dowels?

 

Its possible.... I think it uses the bolts for alignment, and there IS some slop there. Not sure how tolerant it is of mis-alignment...... I would think the oil pump would pretty much center it at the crank though......