Are we talking about the 95 in your sig? If it is the light duty 3/4 (7500 gvw) it is indeed the 9.25, if it is the 8800 GVW, then it should be a D60.

 

thanks hey you! Yes the 95. Build sheet confirms 9.25.

 

So dumb question, when replacing the track bar, is it best to have all the weight off the front end with axle hanging, or can it be done with the wheels on the ground still?

 

I did it with the tires on the ground. Made lining it up a LOT easier. Just had someone give the side of the truck a bit of a push, till the balljoint end went into its socket.

 

Hey you, do you know what the torque specs of both ends would be? I've read that it could be 70 ft lbs, it could be 130 ft lbs, don't trust haynes, reef on it until you can't move it anymore. All i have is haynes manual and was going to go by that.

 

At least 110ft/lbs on the axle end. The other end, I just zipped it tight, gave it two grunts, then lined up the cotter key.

 

I got the new track bar installed and it feels a lot better steering wise than it did before. Still sloppy though, but happy with the improvement.
I bought a ball joint tool that arrived yesterday so I can do ball joints on either of my trucks and do the u joints as well. I'll hopefully get to the ujoints next this weekend.
Anyhow, I found that my front stabilzer bar link joints were shot house, so I got new ones and bushings as well that need installed. Upon other inspection under the front, I found that I can literally grab the tie rod bars anywhere and rotate them as far forward and as far back as they could on their ball joints pretty easily. I would expect to not be able to do that? Little bit of clunking sound when I did that. Is that a sign of them being shot house too and need replacing? Or can they do that to an extent by hand? I priced all steering components on rock auto and can get them delivered to my door for $240 using moog parts.

There's just under 160,000 miles on the truck, in the 72,000 miles I've owned the truck, only a few tie rod ends here and there were replaced.

 

Do you have the inverted Y steering, or the crossover linkage?

 

The play is in the steering box, dollar to donuts. I went through all this recently chasing the last bit of play.

Ordered the fancy T steering but had to modify it. (hey you knows) If you go this route, be sure to get the AC Delco brand with the "puck" bushing at the passenger end. There's lots of threads dealing with this kit so just start reading up.

Went through 2 Redhead gears even went to the factory twice

New stabilizer
new end links
new tires
alignment
New pump

Finally got it respectable again but not like it was when newer. It consumed me for over a year. So ask yourself, how much time and money do you really want to waste on your second truck?

 

I'll be honest, I haven't the slightest clue the difference between the two. But judging by ramman's comment that he ordered the t steering, I'm going to say I have the Y steering. I'll read into the T steering.

I'm sure the box is a lot of the play, no doubt about it. I am planning on putting a red head in there if funds can allow it. If I don't have to dump money into all the tie rods, then I can jump to the red head instead. Ramman you said you went through 2 red heads, was that due to failure or just didn't fix the wandering issue enough?
I don't mind dumping time into this truck, money is the limiting factor. I really just miss driving it. Fixing the big issues to get it comfortable and confident on the road is the goal. Plus this will all be good practice when my 3rd gen front end turns to slop