Removing Steering Slop... Kinda
#21
11-06-2017, 06:19 PM
No need to get on the ground. Can you sit on a bucket or small chair?
1. Remove passenger wheel
2. Then sit over the passenger tie rod and remove the cotter pin,
3. Loosen nut and whack with a hammer to drop the tie rod out,
4. put two or three washers on the ball, re-set the tie rod in the knuckle, and tighten.
I've done it a couple times and it's easier than changing oil. No kidding!
1. Remove passenger wheel
2. Then sit over the passenger tie rod and remove the cotter pin,
3. Loosen nut and whack with a hammer to drop the tie rod out,
4. put two or three washers on the ball, re-set the tie rod in the knuckle, and tighten.
I've done it a couple times and it's easier than changing oil. No kidding!
#22
11-06-2017, 08:14 PM
No need to get on the ground. Can you sit on a bucket or small chair?
1. Remove passenger wheel
2. Then sit over the passenger tie rod and remove the cotter pin,
3. Loosen nut and whack with a hammer to drop the tie rod out,
4. put two or three washers on the ball, re-set the tie rod in the knuckle, and tighten.
I've done it a couple times and it's easier than changing oil. No kidding!
1. Remove passenger wheel
2. Then sit over the passenger tie rod and remove the cotter pin,
3. Loosen nut and whack with a hammer to drop the tie rod out,
4. put two or three washers on the ball, re-set the tie rod in the knuckle, and tighten.
I've done it a couple times and it's easier than changing oil. No kidding!
I'll get around to it eventually. Just the weather has been really unstable of late, so, pain is a constant companion. (I have MS.... changes of the seasons do NOT do me any favors.) I don't wanna live on painkillers yet, cause I know it's only gonna get worse as time goes on. I have about 10 gallons of kerosene in the garage, and a torpedo heater that gets it nice and toasty warm in there. (even with one of the garage doors open about four inches..... leaving them all closed..... well, the torpedo heater can eat up all the oxygen in the garage pretty quick...... ask me how I know.
) So, when the weather stabilizes a bit more, I'll stuff the truck into the garage, and play. I have seat covers, (I hate leather seats..... summer or winter......) new battery tray, and hold downs to install as well.
#24
11-08-2017, 09:54 AM
Thanks anyway. I appreciate the thought. I'll get out there eventually and deal with it. Just getting the house ready for winter at this point......
#25
11-09-2017, 07:48 AM
I agree with you RAMMAN18 about Dana/Spicer in the 4 wheel drive trucks, and that MOOG may not be what it once was. However, I was able to find some older NOS MOOG components made in the USA, with a lifetime warranty.
I have a two wheel drive/rear wheel drive truck. If Dana/Spicer made the frontend/axle/steering/suspension components in this truck, I'm not finding any evidence of it in the aftermarket as far back as 2002. If you search for replacement "Dana/Spicer Ball Joints/Tie rods" you'll have a hard time finding anything except 4-wheel drive Dana 44/60 components. If you go with Dodge/Chrysler OEM, you'll get the same non-serviceable parts that have left me at 105K miles with failure due to excessive play, and joint separation. You'll get the standard one year warranty, and you'll never know which company made them for Chrysler. Odds are, today, the parts are of Pacific-rim origin. Not necessarily a bad thing, but somewhat unaccountable due to a lack of technical/specification info, without a lot of digging.
I encourage you to read the MOOG component info at the following links to get a little more insight into my decision to go with MOOG:
http://www.rockauto.com/info/Moog/MO...etin_27015.pdf
http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_...rial_ENG-R.pdf
http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_...load_ENG-R.pdf
http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_...sign_ENG-R.pdf
http://www.rockauto.com/info/Moog/MO...etin_27019.pdf
In the "for what it's worth department":
NASCAR, mandates the use of MOOG ball joints and tie rod ends on every Sprint Cup race car. Pretty good endorsement...although I'm sure there's probably a few dollars that change hands to get the MOOG logo smeared across your hood!☺
I have a two wheel drive/rear wheel drive truck. If Dana/Spicer made the frontend/axle/steering/suspension components in this truck, I'm not finding any evidence of it in the aftermarket as far back as 2002. If you search for replacement "Dana/Spicer Ball Joints/Tie rods" you'll have a hard time finding anything except 4-wheel drive Dana 44/60 components. If you go with Dodge/Chrysler OEM, you'll get the same non-serviceable parts that have left me at 105K miles with failure due to excessive play, and joint separation. You'll get the standard one year warranty, and you'll never know which company made them for Chrysler. Odds are, today, the parts are of Pacific-rim origin. Not necessarily a bad thing, but somewhat unaccountable due to a lack of technical/specification info, without a lot of digging.
I encourage you to read the MOOG component info at the following links to get a little more insight into my decision to go with MOOG:
http://www.rockauto.com/info/Moog/MO...etin_27015.pdf
http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_...rial_ENG-R.pdf
http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_...load_ENG-R.pdf
http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_...sign_ENG-R.pdf
http://www.rockauto.com/info/Moog/MO...etin_27019.pdf
In the "for what it's worth department":
NASCAR, mandates the use of MOOG ball joints and tie rod ends on every Sprint Cup race car. Pretty good endorsement...although I'm sure there's probably a few dollars that change hands to get the MOOG logo smeared across your hood!☺
Last edited by shak; 11-09-2017 at 07:57 AM.
#26
11-09-2017, 11:19 PM
Good thread, currently going through this on my v10. I replaced everything but the box (because they were dangerously worn including the balljoints, gotta love lifted trucks). I may just have to get a redhead box with the taller tires. It still has slop but much better.
Last edited by adukart; 11-09-2017 at 11:23 PM.