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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
That's the way my '96 front Dana 60 ball joints are oriented. To grease them, I installed the grease fittings, greased the joints, then removed the grease fittings and installed threaded plugs, as the grease fittings protruded just enough to interfere with the u-joint/stub axle assembly.
It also has a weird setup where the front rotor and hub on each side are held together with knurled lug studs
Yeah, whoever though staking brake rotors on to the back side of the hub flange needs to be flogged.
I always theorized that automotive engineers hated the techs that had to work on their designs...... and this is just another nail in the coffin.
I personally know a few of those engineers. In speaking with them, I believe that most feel that their projects have finite lifespans and they don't necessarily care about the repair side of the house and hopefully frustrate folks into buying a newer vehicle.
I personally know a few of those engineers. In speaking with them, I believe that most feel that their projects have finite lifespans and they don't necessarily care about the repair side of the house and hopefully frustrate folks into buying a newer vehicle.
Yeah. Lets make it a major undertaking to address a MAINTENANCE problem that is guaranteed to occur every 20,000 miles or so...... Yeah, that's a good idea.
I think any automotive engineer should be required to spend three years working on them, in a dealership setting.
Yeah. Lets make it a major undertaking to address a MAINTENANCE problem that is guaranteed to occur every 20,000 miles or so...... Yeah, that's a good idea.
I think any automotive engineer should be required to spend three years working on them, in a dealership setting.
They do seem to care about high recall rates or major safety issues during the warranty period of the vehicle that draw the government's ire towards the manufacturer, but unfortunately, there is less thought about for the folks doing the repairs. I agree that all engineers should be exposed to the effects of their creations
That type of rust is not uncommon to see with our friends in the Northeast and Midwestern areas. Down south in Winston-Salem, NC, not so much.
+1 As a former Northern Mechanic, wrenching on vehicles in the south is so much more fun.......although my cutting torches still get used occasionally.
I tried - not enough room to keep it from hitting the U-joint/Stub axle area.
Do you have a few tricks on how to press them puppies out of there I've never had to do them this way before I've always had the whole axle I could beat them out of there
The knuckle can be pretty easily removed. I remove the axle and wheel bearing first. Be sure to soak the large center bolt well with PB Blaster and let it sit awhile before taking the nut off. Once the knuckle is off, you can use a ball joint C-shaped press to remove the old ball joints. I use the press with a good quality air operated impact wrench and had no issue with getting the old ball joints off. You can find pretty good videos of the removal and replacement process on You Tube.
How would you set up the press it looks like it kinda pain to get it in there I've done a few different vehicles ball joints just looks interesting to set up the press I normally do I've looked onlone a few times trying to find a video on it and couldn't find one that style