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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
I would pay $400 I'm a cheap sob a guy is selling 4 for $1000-$1500. Not paying that
They had better be in PRISTINE condition, with all hardware, including mirrors, (power, heated, thankyouverymuch) everything should work, and they should already be the right color..... Then, I *might* consider it..... but, not likely.
They had better be in PRISTINE condition, with all hardware, including mirrors, (power, heated, thankyouverymuch) everything should work, and they should already be the right color..... Then, I *might* consider it..... but, not likely.
There are a few people that were dragging doors up from the South. I paid $80 and $100 for standard cab doors when I restored my 2nd gen. Got them both within 30 minutes from my home. Quad cab doors are more expensive, doubt you'll get someone to drag them up from the South for $400. You might be better off taking a southern trip, drag home 8 doors and sell 4 to finance the trip. Of course you'll want a runner that doesn't get poor mileage.
There are a few people that were dragging doors up from the South. I paid $80 and $100 for standard cab doors when I restored my 2nd gen. Got them both within 30 minutes from my home. Quad cab doors are more expensive, doubt you'll get someone to drag them up from the South for $400. You might be better off taking a southern trip, drag home 8 doors and sell 4 to finance the trip. Of course you'll want a runner that doesn't get poor mileage.
Intermediate Brake Line Write-Up and Gas Tank Removal
Was going to do a write up on this but my pictures got lost so here is the basic steps.
Tools needed:
Phillips Screwdriver
Ratchet
Two long extensions
Flat head screwdriver
5/8 Deep well
NOTE: THE LESS GAS IN THE TANK THE BETTER! ONE GALLON OF GAS WEIGHS 5 POUNDS!!
1. 4 Philip's screws in the fuel door to get the filter neck free.
OR
1. Take the 2 hose clamps off the tank they are Philip's or 8mm socket. If you go this route use the flat head to separate the rubber hose from the tank as it will be stuck
2. Take the back gas tank strap off using the ratchet extensions and 5/8 deep well. Then take it completely off.
3. Loosen the front strap shop you can get to the lines and the electrical plug.
4. Disconnect the fuel line, evap lines (1 if 96-97 or 2 if 98-up). You do this by pushing in on the tabs I'm pointing to.
5. Take the front strap completely off and remove the tank.
Now me I broke one of the evap nipples on the tank and my fuel line was rusty and snapped. If this didn't happen now all you do is disconnect it from the block by the driver's wheel and run the line. It will be at the right of the block where I'm pointing.
Does anybody know where to get the fuel line?
Here is the tank out.
I'm upgrading to the 35 gallon tank. If you do this you can use the same fuel pump as they are both identical.
Ok so a 35 gallon will NOT fit you need a 34 gallon one four a short bed (long bed can fit a 35). He ate the 3 in order.
Top 26 gallon
Middle is 35
Bottom is 34.
Notice the hump on each side of the fuel pump on the 35. The one on the left is what hits the front crossmember, whereas the 34 is flat on the left of the pump.