2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Restoration
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
I used that stuff last year or so ago. I cut off the rusted out outer lower part of my lower front fender and treated the inner remaining part of the fender. I'm waiting to invest in a welder to put the new skin (patch panel) over that part. I did as directions said and already have rust coming through. I also treated lower seams o both doors. I'm not sure how those are going to hold up but it doesn't look promising. I removed my rear bumper and also treated the back side of it. Time will tell on that and it seams to be the most promising piece I did. I didn't see the Blast part of the kit doing really anything. Not impressed so far. I hope you get better results. I got some Ospho and plan on sanding out old and trying again on the body. I don't think lI would have as many issues if I could park the truck and do it "right". Daily driving while doing body work sucks lol.
Last edited by MoparFanatic21; Mar 28, 2020 at 01:25 PM.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,409
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From: Clayton MI
You work be correct. I do believe your prep wasn't done right. If toy dinner get both sides rust can come through on the back side. This is a trial run before I invest, so far all the other manufacturers (POR15, Chassis Saver, and another brand I can't remember) failed so if this doesn't work I'll powder coat the frame
I really like the chassis saver stuff. I used it on my mower deck, and it is still holding up really well.
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
It didn't hold up on my frame. What was your prep
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,409
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Sand-blasted to bare metal, wiped down with metal prep (phosphoric acid, essentially) then brushed on. Let it get a bit tacky, and applied a second coat. The stuff that got where I didn't want it, I had to use a grinder to take it off. Sand-blaster wouldn't touch it. Even a chisel and hammer wasn't very effective.
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
Sand-blasted to bare metal, wiped down with metal prep (phosphoric acid, essentially) then brushed on. Let it get a bit tacky, and applied a second coat. The stuff that got where I didn't want it, I had to use a grinder to take it off. Sand-blaster wouldn't touch it. Even a chisel and hammer wasn't very effective.
Captain
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 593
Likes: 8
From: Shawnee, KS
You work be correct. I do believe your prep wasn't done right. If you don't get both sides rust can come through on the back side. This is a trial run before I invest, so far all the other manufacturers (POR15, Chassis Saver, and another brand I can't remember) failed so if this doesn't work I'll powder coat the frame
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
Steering Kit
So a little update here. I made an option with a tapered bolt so you don't have to drill your knuckles. There is no bump steer that I can tell without stabilizers. Since I have 40s I ran a low and a high mount stabilizers, with the low mount mounted opposite of factory. I will be ready to sell these sometime this month.
I now am preparing to put Hydro assist on my truck
I now am preparing to put Hydro assist on my truck
