Front Right Caliper Sticking
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,429
Likes: 4,215
From: Clayton MI
Maybe. Consider though, that the front brakes operate at pressures north of 1000 PSI..... If there is a leak, fluid is going to be coming OUT.
Real easy to see which is the problem. Jack up the tire in question, pull the tire, step on the brakes to build pressure. Will the rotor turn relatively easily? If no, crack open the bleeder, does it run easier now? If it does, then the line is bad.
I have replaced a LOT more brake lines, then I have calipers......
Real easy to see which is the problem. Jack up the tire in question, pull the tire, step on the brakes to build pressure. Will the rotor turn relatively easily? If no, crack open the bleeder, does it run easier now? If it does, then the line is bad.
I have replaced a LOT more brake lines, then I have calipers......
Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,810
Likes: 105
From: PA
So I asked a few buddies in automotive school about the issue and they pointed out that my caliper boot is torn and that’s the problem, because my soft line really doesn’t look that bad, but idk. I’ve never done brake lines, and it’s hard to bleed the brakes by myself.
Could a torn caliper boot lead to the piston getting water into it, through mudding, and not being able to compress back down as easily?
Could a torn caliper boot lead to the piston getting water into it, through mudding, and not being able to compress back down as easily?
When you compress the piston, a little trick I use it to release the pent up air by pulling out a little on the seal with a very small flat screw driver. That keeps the seal from potentially getting pinched ( and tearing) between the piston and pad.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,429
Likes: 4,215
From: Clayton MI
To get the ball studs to pop out, get TWO hammers. Bigger the better. (I use two three pound single-jacks) Hold one hammer against the side of the part the stud goes thru, SMACK the other side, with the other hammer. Generally, two good hits, and out it pops. You can use lighter hammers, but, they aren't quite as effective. (have to hit it more/harder) You aren't going to break anything, so, feel free to wail on it. (just don't miss.....)
Pad wear could be guides, could be the line, or could be the caliper itself. As the parts aren't hideously expensive, replace them ALL. New calipers, pads, rotors, and soft lines. Flush the brake system with fresh fluid, until it runs clean.
Also clean up any friction points between caliper, and knuckle, and apply a bit of silicone grease to the surfaces. (I use syl-glide, good stuff.)
Pad wear could be guides, could be the line, or could be the caliper itself. As the parts aren't hideously expensive, replace them ALL. New calipers, pads, rotors, and soft lines. Flush the brake system with fresh fluid, until it runs clean.
Also clean up any friction points between caliper, and knuckle, and apply a bit of silicone grease to the surfaces. (I use syl-glide, good stuff.)
To get the ball studs to pop out, get TWO hammers. Bigger the better. (I use two three pound single-jacks) Hold one hammer against the side of the part the stud goes thru, SMACK the other side, with the other hammer. Generally, two good hits, and out it pops. You can use lighter hammers, but, they aren't quite as effective. (have to hit it more/harder) You aren't going to break anything, so, feel free to wail on it. (just don't miss.....)
Pad wear could be guides, could be the line, or could be the caliper itself. As the parts aren't hideously expensive, replace them ALL. New calipers, pads, rotors, and soft lines. Flush the brake system with fresh fluid, until it runs clean.
Also clean up any friction points between caliper, and knuckle, and apply a bit of silicone grease to the surfaces. (I use syl-glide, good stuff.)
Pad wear could be guides, could be the line, or could be the caliper itself. As the parts aren't hideously expensive, replace them ALL. New calipers, pads, rotors, and soft lines. Flush the brake system with fresh fluid, until it runs clean.
Also clean up any friction points between caliper, and knuckle, and apply a bit of silicone grease to the surfaces. (I use syl-glide, good stuff.)
how can I get the axle nuts off without the entire assembly spinning as well?
Unfortunatly I’m kinda tapped at the moment, I’ve got enough for one caliper and some brake fluid. I’ll replace that side and see how it goes from there, as I’ve got like maybe 3 weeks before I Move out to North Carolina, so if the caliper doesn’t fix it then I’ll do the soft line before I leave too.
Just got the ball joint press in the mail today, so now I just gotta take all this stuff off and get to the ball joints
