2000 Dodge Ram p1762 after Shift Solenoid/Governor/Transducer Replacement
#11
#12
Around August 2018. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...on-slip-2.html
I could just do the transducer, but the thing is, I really don't want to have to drop the pan and do this again. That being said, if I have to, I figured I would just go ahead and put a new solenoid in there too. I just want this thing to run trouble-free for the next 20K miles. So, while it is extra $$, short of dropping the valve body, and doing the bands again, etc...I just wanted to drop the pan, do the transducer, and go ahead and do the solenoid and gasket, dump atf in, and pray. The truck is not slipping, despite this issue. I did the solenoid/transducer/tcc because of the slipping issue. And 2 weeks or so later, the p1763/p1762 codes came up. And they never came up until I replaced those parts. Either I did something wrong, or the transducer had failed. And me doing all the o2 sensor elimination seems to help conclude that. No reference voltage to interfere with the transmission electronics since ALL o2's were disconnected, and still got the code + I got these codes as a direct result of changing the parts = looks like the parts (transducer). Also, I figured I would do the solenoid just to eliminate if it's clogged, etc. since the fluid was kinda nasty when I did this job, and I know there was still dirty fluid in the torque converter I didn't get out, so hopefully by doing this job again, it will clean up what wasn't the 1st time....I hope.
Can you help confirm which Borg Warner Solonoid to get, and the transducer. Any reason, I should NOT go with Mopar <transducer>?
I found a couple other retailers (summit, phoenix transmission, etc) that have similar kits available...I don't know if I should go with them or just get the parts separately like I had been thinking. I just don't want to get another bad part.
I could just do the transducer, but the thing is, I really don't want to have to drop the pan and do this again. That being said, if I have to, I figured I would just go ahead and put a new solenoid in there too. I just want this thing to run trouble-free for the next 20K miles. So, while it is extra $$, short of dropping the valve body, and doing the bands again, etc...I just wanted to drop the pan, do the transducer, and go ahead and do the solenoid and gasket, dump atf in, and pray. The truck is not slipping, despite this issue. I did the solenoid/transducer/tcc because of the slipping issue. And 2 weeks or so later, the p1763/p1762 codes came up. And they never came up until I replaced those parts. Either I did something wrong, or the transducer had failed. And me doing all the o2 sensor elimination seems to help conclude that. No reference voltage to interfere with the transmission electronics since ALL o2's were disconnected, and still got the code + I got these codes as a direct result of changing the parts = looks like the parts (transducer). Also, I figured I would do the solenoid just to eliminate if it's clogged, etc. since the fluid was kinda nasty when I did this job, and I know there was still dirty fluid in the torque converter I didn't get out, so hopefully by doing this job again, it will clean up what wasn't the 1st time....I hope.
Can you help confirm which Borg Warner Solonoid to get, and the transducer. Any reason, I should NOT go with Mopar <transducer>?
I found a couple other retailers (summit, phoenix transmission, etc) that have similar kits available...I don't know if I should go with them or just get the parts separately like I had been thinking. I just don't want to get another bad part.
Last edited by l33ch; 03-31-2019 at 09:28 PM.
#14
#17
#18
So, I talked to the owner of Cascade Transmission about my issue, and he was willing to work with me despite it being past 90 days. I placed another order for an OEM transducer and solenoid gasket (I replaced the gasket last time and it's probably fine, but screw it, I'll do it again.)
When the parts come in, and I get a new filter and pan gasket (wix), I'll swap out the transducer , refill fluid, and report back if everything seems to be ok or not. Last time, everything was great for about 2 weeks, so if no codes w/i a day or 2, won't cut it as it takes awhile for the codes to come back up.
* I hope I didn't melt my o2 wires because when I disconnected them, I kinda just left them hanging. Didn't really tuck them or anything, so hopefully there won't be any surprises when I reconnect the 4 o2s.
Ok, I'll keep you all advised.
If this doesn't work. when it comes time to smog, I think I'll just get rid of the truck. But that's only if no-worky. Bought truck for 3k. New/rebuilt transmission will be 1k+, so not worth it. I dunno..we'll see.
When the parts come in, and I get a new filter and pan gasket (wix), I'll swap out the transducer , refill fluid, and report back if everything seems to be ok or not. Last time, everything was great for about 2 weeks, so if no codes w/i a day or 2, won't cut it as it takes awhile for the codes to come back up.
* I hope I didn't melt my o2 wires because when I disconnected them, I kinda just left them hanging. Didn't really tuck them or anything, so hopefully there won't be any surprises when I reconnect the 4 o2s.
Ok, I'll keep you all advised.
If this doesn't work. when it comes time to smog, I think I'll just get rid of the truck. But that's only if no-worky. Bought truck for 3k. New/rebuilt transmission will be 1k+, so not worth it. I dunno..we'll see.
#19
Well...
Pulled pan, replaced the transducer, reseated the solenoid--the filters on solenoid looked good, new gasket, pan.....I drained out about 7 quarts and maybe half quart worth in cleanup, rags, etc...I put in 4 quarts (1 Jug ATF+4) , started in neutral, and check engine p1762 came right up..cycled gears, then started to slowly add the other jug in..car is cold/warming up..got to around 5-6 quarts when started to register on dipstick, cycling gears, etc., added the last 2, right in middle OK hash mark @ temp.tried clearing code and p1762 code came right up. Engine light doesn't even disappear, cannot even clear it, unless engine off, and upon startup it comes right back.
Fluid was a little dirty for only 3000 or so miles, and magnet had stuff on it like last time.
Replacing the transducer did not work. Selling the truck.
Pulled pan, replaced the transducer, reseated the solenoid--the filters on solenoid looked good, new gasket, pan.....I drained out about 7 quarts and maybe half quart worth in cleanup, rags, etc...I put in 4 quarts (1 Jug ATF+4) , started in neutral, and check engine p1762 came right up..cycled gears, then started to slowly add the other jug in..car is cold/warming up..got to around 5-6 quarts when started to register on dipstick, cycling gears, etc., added the last 2, right in middle OK hash mark @ temp.tried clearing code and p1762 code came right up. Engine light doesn't even disappear, cannot even clear it, unless engine off, and upon startup it comes right back.
Fluid was a little dirty for only 3000 or so miles, and magnet had stuff on it like last time.
Replacing the transducer did not work. Selling the truck.
Last edited by l33ch; 04-13-2019 at 11:52 PM.
#20