96 dodge ram 2500 v-10 4x4 AT w/ OD 214,000 original miles
#331
-35 to -38F here in the middle of B.C. last few days, warmed up last night to -10F or so, brilliantly sunny days though, good for solar.
The idea behind icing is to shrink the crank fractionally, then heat the core of the balancer to expand it away from the crank. 9F air temp is colder than you will get it with a bag of ice. Work reasonably fast, you can't damage the rubber, it's well out aways from the crank. The crank snout is tapered to align the pulley to an exact spot. If the last outfit torqued it on properly, you can be in for a fight.
Here is the puller you need:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-6667-Ha...AAAOSwRGhesynu
I have used the three jaw type, but the base is too wide for decent jaws, you end up using a small puller. It has worked and it has also broken the jaws of the puller. I have the MAC tools version of thist set, one or two extra pieces, but MATCO, LISLE, OTC are all the same and decently priced used. The base is narrow so the jaws stay aligned vertically, it pushes on the bottom of the crank tap, to keep the puller vertical, and you won't break the good ones. On your own for Chinese sheeite. Good luck, was hoping you'd be driving that truck by now.
The idea behind icing is to shrink the crank fractionally, then heat the core of the balancer to expand it away from the crank. 9F air temp is colder than you will get it with a bag of ice. Work reasonably fast, you can't damage the rubber, it's well out aways from the crank. The crank snout is tapered to align the pulley to an exact spot. If the last outfit torqued it on properly, you can be in for a fight.
Here is the puller you need:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-6667-Ha...AAAOSwRGhesynu
I have used the three jaw type, but the base is too wide for decent jaws, you end up using a small puller. It has worked and it has also broken the jaws of the puller. I have the MAC tools version of thist set, one or two extra pieces, but MATCO, LISLE, OTC are all the same and decently priced used. The base is narrow so the jaws stay aligned vertically, it pushes on the bottom of the crank tap, to keep the puller vertical, and you won't break the good ones. On your own for Chinese sheeite. Good luck, was hoping you'd be driving that truck by now.
#332
Timing chain tolerances
So I finally removed the damper. HeyYou! Thanks again for the "heat gun" tip. it didnt take much. Size did matter on this job and the 8" puller was too big (thats what she said) the 6" puller grenaded but pulled it off most the way and the little 4incher finished it off!! What are the tolerances on the timing chain? It has some play in it. The truck this engine came out of said 125k on the odometer. Is it worth change n the chain now that its exposed?
#333
#334
So the million dollar question? How do you get that damper back on? Book says 192 ft lbs if i recall correctly?
It shows a tool on the service manual but CRAPA and Oreillys are the only 2 parts stores on this island and they both game me the blank stair...........?
It shows a tool on the service manual but CRAPA and Oreillys are the only 2 parts stores on this island and they both game me the blank stair...........?
#336
#337
#338
I did notice the high spot. I remember changing the sensor and it said to turn the engine until there was a certain amount of clearance before installing the new one. Does that mean that i should take the sensor out before i put the timing chain cover back on? I marked the cover and the damper to make sure it goes back on the exact way it came off. Nothing has moved, so technically it should just go back together the way it came off shouldnt it?
#339
#340
So which way do these engines turn? been so long since ive seen it run i forget. Turns to the right if you were sit n in the drivers seat? Gotta line up the timing marks before removing the camshaft sprocket to replace the chain. Do i have to remove the crankshaft sprocket? Seems un necessary?