Got some truck issues...

Truck was running pretty stellar other than a cross fire or vacuum leak issue when on the way home from an appointment/parts run it picked up a heck of a clatter, or knock. Shut it down to restart, and could not. Thought initially it was a flex plate, or torque converter bolt issue, but received the bad news that I lost a bearing.

Kind of got my old truck more or less the way I want it, so I was looking at doing a rebuild, or maybe crate engine. I did want to upgrade the heads, intake, cam and exhaust, and looks like this pushed it up a little.

The block has about 240 000 km or 150 000. I'd kind of like to make it into a 408 stroker, with some real guts and low end torque. Will I need to change everything, or will all the "little things" be good to stay?

Because this is my DD, and hunting truck, I would probably be looking at a shop to do the work. Looking for affordable suggestions on a build or swap. Running a rebuilt, and upgraded slush box from NADP behind it, so I'd kind of like to keep it.

Don't really want a junk yard engine, as they'll all be getting up there in mileage and need work, and or upgrades.

 

408 build won't be quick, or budget friendly. If you have something else to drive, then that would be something to consider. But, if it's ALL you have to drive, then the hot ticket is going to be putting a crate motor in it, and calling it a day.

 

Well I'm OK going a little bit over what a regular reman motor will cost. I believe that it was a main bearing. If I rebuild my engine, I will need a crank and pistons regardless. Not totally stuck on a 408, but if I need a crank, and it's not a whole lot more, I'd like to stroke it.

I'm not stuck for transportation. I have company transportation (crew vehicle) for work. I can steal the "Wife's Commander" when needed. I also have my little Sidekick for getting around. Where this hurts me a bit for convenience is it being hunting season. But I hunt pretty close to town. A few minutes out of town, and I'm hunting. Sometimes I take off right from town with my old 3-wheeler.

 

You can get a reman engine for around 2K or so. Probably even with a few improvements. What year is your truck? If you go too much beyond stock, you will need a custom tune to run it, and if your truck is 95 or older..... you can't tune it. You would have to come up with something else to run the engine. (but, there are solutions out there.) I think you will spend over a grand JUST for the stroker kit. And that doesn't include all the machine work to the block you will need. (of course, some of the machine work you would need anyway.....)

 

When I saw the words "hunting truck", that raised a flag. You never want to take a modified vehicle off road unless it was built for that. A stronger motor will find weak links in the rest of the drive train. It's one thing to break down near your house in a parking lot. Back woods recovery can get mighty pricey. A couple of years ago, I went with a friend to tow a break down in. He had to use a heavier truck than normal as it is 4X4 and a heavier capacity on the winches. What would have been a $50-75 tow turned into a monster.Nearly 4 hours to get about 5 miles off road. I think the final bill was $500 or $600. I found out why I needed to go along as I had to tie the winch off several times to unstick the roll back.

If you like the truck otherwise, put either a rebuilt, crate or a low mileage used engine in it. Keep your cost, and the possibility of failure, down.

 

Add a little bit on that for a weak Canadian dollar... Found that I can get a reman for about $2800. My truck is a 2001. Was talking to an engine builder, and mentioned I have an older SuperChips tuner, and he thinks with a reasonable build that I won't even need a tune.

From what I've been reading, it sounds like it's pretty straightforward to get good HP. I don't want to run Magnum heads even if they are massaged, as they are prone to cracking between the seats. Probably go with Edelbrocks heads, a better flowing intake (Perfomer maybe?), and a little more aggressive cam. If I rebuild my engine, I'll need a crank and pistons any way. Sounds like a spun bearing. The cost of reconditioning the crank is around what a new crank will cost, and I believe the stroker cranks are about the same.

I really don't want to get stock parts, then a year later, take half the engine apart for a cam swap, doing kegger mods, etc.

 

A little background on my truck: It's a 2500, rebuilt the Dana 60 in the rear with a Detroit locker, a rebuilt AAM up front (for a front electronic locker) out of a newer Power Wagon, and a rebuilt and upgraded transmission from NADP in Edmonton. Currently on 35x12.5" tires. The differentials will take 1000+ HP, and my transmission will take quite a bit more than stock HP.

Not planning on building a finicky failure prone combo, or some fire breathing drag race engine, but something that's has a bit more power and torque than stock; something that won't take a back seat to a Hemi...

 

To clarify a bit, I'd like to see 430-460 HP and over 500 ft./lbs. but maybe 380 HP would be more reasonable, and a better fit for the truck. The stock power is a bit low for a heavier truck, especially when adding bigger tires or towing.

Not really after a high rpm screamer, as it'll next to never see 6000 rpm.

 

There are a couple folks that make better heads for the magnums. There are "stock" NEW castings, with thicker decks, that cure the cracking issue. There are EQ monster magnums, which are better castings, better flow, and available with 2.02 intake valves. (and larger exhaust as well, just don't remember the size.....) Any of which can be had for around a grand for a pair. Instead of "Each", like you pay for the Edelbrocks.....

 

Unfortunately the Magnums will also take a backseat to a Hemi, with one more gear in the tranny and the power curve keeps building up until 6K RPM where ours falls flat after 4K RPM.

Im currently swapping a Hellcat w/8spd auto into my Ram 2500. The AAM 9.25 are known to blow the ring gear just watch for that