Rear end bouncing after new shoes and drums
#21
10-17-2019, 08:36 AM
Champion
With 50 years experience, I forget how it is to get these things together for someone just starting. Still, I do have to fight them at times. Even after all these years, I only do one side at a time so I can refer to the other as a mirror image. At least they are juice brakes, not mechanical. Two tools I have that are probably older than most of the people here are a p[air of brake spring pliers and a spring compressor for the pins with hold down springs and plates. Those two save a LOT of busted knuckles. It is easy to get something on wrong but I'm beginning to wonder if you don't have a warped drum or bent axle.
#22
10-17-2019, 11:13 AM
With 50 years experience, I forget how it is to get these things together for someone just starting. Still, I do have to fight them at times. Even after all these years, I only do one side at a time so I can refer to the other as a mirror image. At least they are juice brakes, not mechanical. Two tools I have that are probably older than most of the people here are a p[air of brake spring pliers and a spring compressor for the pins with hold down springs and plates. Those two save a LOT of busted knuckles. It is easy to get something on wrong but I'm beginning to wonder if you don't have a warped drum or bent axle.
#23
10-17-2019, 11:34 AM
#24
10-17-2019, 12:50 PM
Champion
It may not be bent, I just never take shortcuts when looking for a problem. I check everything. Usually, no problem. A few times, I've found something else that was causing the problem. A couple of times I've found other things that were a catastrophic failure about to happen. It's more to eliminate a possible cause to narrow it down. The studs being different lengths give me pause.The drum will bolt to the axle just fine with the braking surface out. The angle of attack will amplify and warpage. Just remember to keep your foot off the brake pedal.
#25
10-19-2019, 04:56 PM
I returned the old drums and received new ones. It seems to be a lot better, it’s driveable now. I still feel it shaking and once in awhile it will shake the whole truck, I noticed I feel it in the pedal a lot more now.
below is pictures. I have them adjusted to wear the drum barely fits, if I tried spinning them with them on there, it’s hard to tell if it’s dragging or not because it’s kinda hard to spin! Maybe they’re adjusted wrong? And I also noticed that the stud is just short, the previous owner must’ve put a shorter stud in. I think I have them adjusted differently on both sides, I’m gonna double check tomorrow. Also is it common that my truck doesn’t have a way to adjust them without taking the drum off? No access point from the back
https://imgur.com/a/NS2zMa2 passenger side
https://imgur.com/a/BqXcJmK driver side
below is pictures. I have them adjusted to wear the drum barely fits, if I tried spinning them with them on there, it’s hard to tell if it’s dragging or not because it’s kinda hard to spin! Maybe they’re adjusted wrong? And I also noticed that the stud is just short, the previous owner must’ve put a shorter stud in. I think I have them adjusted differently on both sides, I’m gonna double check tomorrow. Also is it common that my truck doesn’t have a way to adjust them without taking the drum off? No access point from the back
https://imgur.com/a/NS2zMa2 passenger side
https://imgur.com/a/BqXcJmK driver side
Last edited by Chunx89; 10-19-2019 at 06:45 PM.
#26
10-19-2019, 10:50 PM
The brakes are self-adjusting that's what all the linkages and levers are for. But yes it can be a pain to get the drum off sometimes. Looking at the studs there's definitely something going on there. The factory ones have the short unthreaded section and half of the studs are different. That *shouldn't* matter but check that the drum sits all the way down against the flange and that it is properly clamped when the wheel is mounted. Are the wheels stock or aftermarket ?
#27
10-19-2019, 11:40 PM
The brakes are self-adjusting that's what all the linkages and levers are for. But yes it can be a pain to get the drum off sometimes. Looking at the studs there's definitely something going on there. The factory ones have the short unthreaded section and half of the studs are different. That *shouldn't* matter but check that the drum sits all the way down against the flange and that it is properly clamped when the wheel is mounted. Are the wheels stock or aftermarket ?
they’re rims from another year dodge, I never noticed the one stud being shorter but I also never bothered to look. Does everything look right in the pictures, Spring’s etc....
my next guess is to buy two new cylinders and adjusters, other than that it beyond stumped.
#29
10-20-2019, 11:41 AM
I have a similar problem, but not that bad. I installed all new brakes, front and back, and also new rear wheel brake cylinders, one of which was leaking. The truck stops on a dime, as the expression goes. If I step on the brakes lightly coming to a slow stop, all is fine. If I step on the brakes harder, as to stop quickly, it seems my whole truck shakes.
Now correct me if I'm wrong, but the front brakes grab first and then the rear brakes grab, correct? If so, then stopping slowly the front brakes are working and when the truck is almost stopped the back brakes apply themselves. But when stopping more quickly, the back brakes will work harder as the truck is at a higher speed making that contact under more pressure, which will magnify the problem. In my case I believe it is an out of round drum, since when I got the truck only the back brakes worked as the front brakes were rusted and seized open. It was a farm truck not used much and also one of the rear cylinders were leaking, so in actuality, only one rear brake shoe stopped the truck. I am sure that this was a perfect environment to cause that drum to overheat and warp.
When I get a chance I'm going to get the drums cut and see what happens form there. I'm guessing you may have a similar problem with a faulty drum and I know that you mentioned you installed all new parts, but if I had a dime for every new part I purchase that was bad, I'd be rich.
Now correct me if I'm wrong, but the front brakes grab first and then the rear brakes grab, correct? If so, then stopping slowly the front brakes are working and when the truck is almost stopped the back brakes apply themselves. But when stopping more quickly, the back brakes will work harder as the truck is at a higher speed making that contact under more pressure, which will magnify the problem. In my case I believe it is an out of round drum, since when I got the truck only the back brakes worked as the front brakes were rusted and seized open. It was a farm truck not used much and also one of the rear cylinders were leaking, so in actuality, only one rear brake shoe stopped the truck. I am sure that this was a perfect environment to cause that drum to overheat and warp.
When I get a chance I'm going to get the drums cut and see what happens form there. I'm guessing you may have a similar problem with a faulty drum and I know that you mentioned you installed all new parts, but if I had a dime for every new part I purchase that was bad, I'd be rich.
Last edited by nyrainman; 10-20-2019 at 11:43 AM.
#30
10-20-2019, 12:23 PM
I have a similar problem, but not that bad. I installed all new brakes, front and back, and also new rear wheel brake cylinders, one of which was leaking. The truck stops on a dime, as the expression goes. If I step on the brakes lightly coming to a slow stop, all is fine. If I step on the brakes harder, as to stop quickly, it seems my whole truck shakes.
Now correct me if I'm wrong, but the front brakes grab first and then the rear brakes grab, correct? If so, then stopping slowly the front brakes are working and when the truck is almost stopped the back brakes apply themselves. But when stopping more quickly, the back brakes will work harder as the truck is at a higher speed making that contact under more pressure, which will magnify the problem. In my case I believe it is an out of round drum, since when I got the truck only the back brakes worked as the front brakes were rusted and seized open. It was a farm truck not used much and also one of the rear cylinders were leaking, so in actuality, only one rear brake shoe stopped the truck. I am sure that this was a perfect environment to cause that drum to overheat and warp.
When I get a chance I'm going to get the drums cut and see what happens form there. I'm guessing you may have a similar problem with a faulty drum and I know that you mentioned you installed all new parts, but if I had a dime for every new part I purchase that was bad, I'd be rich.
Now correct me if I'm wrong, but the front brakes grab first and then the rear brakes grab, correct? If so, then stopping slowly the front brakes are working and when the truck is almost stopped the back brakes apply themselves. But when stopping more quickly, the back brakes will work harder as the truck is at a higher speed making that contact under more pressure, which will magnify the problem. In my case I believe it is an out of round drum, since when I got the truck only the back brakes worked as the front brakes were rusted and seized open. It was a farm truck not used much and also one of the rear cylinders were leaking, so in actuality, only one rear brake shoe stopped the truck. I am sure that this was a perfect environment to cause that drum to overheat and warp.
When I get a chance I'm going to get the drums cut and see what happens form there. I'm guessing you may have a similar problem with a faulty drum and I know that you mentioned you installed all new parts, but if I had a dime for every new part I purchase that was bad, I'd be rich.