ok with that being said, I had water get into my 46re trans, so I’ve read somewhere that somehow you can swap the rh internally into the re and make it work?

 

Nope. Not that I am aware of. The RH uses a mechanical governor, RE uses electronic. You would have to swap the electronic valve body in, and dispose of the mechanical governor, and block whatever ports it may have. Of course, they may block fluid flow to places you need it as well.

It simply isn't worth the time, effort, or money. You could get a decent used trans for less.

If you have something else to drive for a while, you could rebuild your old RE trans..... Several folks here have done it, having never been inside an auto trans before. Clean and organized are the keys.

 

well I appreciate the help, but now could you help me with a guid on rebuilding them? I know absolutely nothing about transmissions...

 

Look in the faq section. There is a thread by j415 with links to some good resources. It's old, but, I *think* the links still work...... You can also download the factory service manual from the faq section here. (link) YouTube also has a bunch of video series on just this topic.

It's an exercise, and it looks much harder than it really is. The only touchy parts is the spring in the O/D housing. It needs to be compressed to dis/re-assemble the o/d section, and yes, if you got water in it, you need to do the O/D section as well. Aside from that, I don't think there are any other 'special' tools. Just a clean place to work, with space to spread things out. Bag and tag ALL fasteners, lay out the parts in the order you remove them. Makes putting it back together MUCH easier. Taking pics as you go certainly doesn't hurt either.

 

alright thank you, so I just called my local oreillys and they said they have a rebuild kit which included all clutches seals and other metal seals and things, is that all I need or? Also how do I completely remove all water from my trans and cooler?

 

I would replace the electronics as well. Governor pressure sensor and solenoid, O/D and TCC solenoid set. Kit should come with clutches, steels, bands, gaskets, and o-rings. (bearings would be a nice bonus.....) You will have to inspect the hard parts when you tear it down, and replace other stuff as necessary.

You will clean out the trans when you rebuild it. You want that thing squeaky clean before you put it back together. Beg/borrow/rent/buy and air compressor. Doesn't have to be a big one, just something you can use to blow out the trans. Back flush the cooler lines with the solvent of your choice. You can use ATF for that exercise, but, the stuff ain't cheap. if you use some other variety of solvent, flush the system with a quart of ATF as well, so there is no solvent residue in the system. (do this when the trans is out. LOTS more room to work. ) Don't apply a lot of pressure to the cooler though, don't wanna literally blow it apart..... then you would need to replace the radiator as well. (as one of the coolers is in the radiator) Replacing the radiator is another way to make sure that cooler is clean. Still gotta flush the lines though, and if you have the aux cooler, that needs to be clean as well.

Keep in mind, there is a check valve in the line running TO the radiator from the trans, and you will need to take that out as well. (pull that section of line, drill out the check valve, blow all the crap out of it, reinstall the line. Leave it that way when you are done.)

Oh, you will need a 3/8ths inch quick connect tool as well. (for the cooler line at the radiator.)

 

ok and and the tail shaft, I don’t have to do anything with that? Or do I? Can you give me a visual of the check valve I’ve had so many people tell me to do it but I just don’t know where it’s located. Also Is there a kit an auto parts store near me might sale that HS EVERYTHING?

 

You would have to check with your parts stores, to see what they have. You want the most complete kit you can get.

I don't have any pics of the check valve.... it *should* be located just in front of the engine, passenger side, right where the hard line changes to rubber. check valve is right there. (should be able to see it just opening the hood, and taking a peek over the passenger fender. )

Being as yours if 4x4, tailshaft is part of the O/D housing. rebuild the o/d section, and you should be golden. (and the parts for that will come in the rebuild kit as well.)

May not hurt to replace the seal, and bushing in the tailhousing of the t-case though. But, if it ain't leakin', not a requirement.

Bed time for me now. Gotta get up for work in the morning.

 

You can get that RH transmission to work, you just need to do some wiring (wiring in the OD and converter lock-up) as your truck uses the computer to control the transmission. I've seen trucks with two switches on the dash to activate. If your fancy, you could install hobbs pressure sensors on the pressure ports. I've done similar on my 700r in my 85 corvette, works awesome. Nice thing about that transmission, now you can dump all the electronics under the hood and go old school (aka carb).

 

Yeah, that's how I roll. PCM lost transmission control, so I crafted couple of switches to the dash, just for temporary fix. Now I've driven and flipping those switches what, eight years. Apparently those '95 diesel PCM's are rare like hens teeth, even though there are reman units but haven't heard much good about them.

Anyway, in OP's case there's still the torque converter that has to be replaced, so like HeyYou suggested, rebuild is the way to go.