Oh there where noises and vibrations man !! I just presumed it was something in the diff...pinion bearing or something

 

That "washer" under the yolk is just a cover to try to keep out dirt and debris. You can buy the $44 one at the parts store

 

Who needs a hemi when the magnum will rip the driveshaft right off?🤣

 

Definitely NOT able to buy the cheaper one. I dug into this pretty thoroughly, The cheaper one is for a different Diff, not the same spline count or u joint part #. All of the different yokes have specific U joints that they are intended to work with. Therefore the u joint in (not anymore !) my truck is designed to work with a specific yoke.

I found a deal on Autozones site for 20% off AND...the correct part IS 159 (like Hey You said) I can get it delivered for about $130 after discount. This is sounding more appealing than spending upwards of 6 hours to drive to Denver to go pick one, which seems like it could be quite time consuming, mainly based on getting that nut off. I havent ordered the part yet. I am going to start by removing the driveshaft, hopefully today. Gonna be quite a bit easier to swap that joint with the shaft out.
Questions :
Should I mark the driveshaft at the front were it mates into the extension housing, so that I can at least re-align the front upon re installation ?

I am a bit perplexed by taking the torque measurement on the yoke. Specifically about the adapter that would obviously be needed. The manual also states that needs to be done BEFORE removing the pinion nut and with a INCH per LB torque wrench. Heres my question, those Inch-Lb Torque wrenches are all 1/4" drive, that Pinion bolt has gotta be about 1 1/2" Which would be a 1/2" drive socket. Anyone ever seen/used an adapter that goes from 1/4 to 1/2 ?

Do I stand a chance of getting that pinion nut off without an impact wrench ? I am doing this out in the parking lot and also I dont own any air tools. As I mentioned previously, I use the heavy handle from my floor jack slid over a 1/2" breaker bar. Will I need to get that tool that holds the yoke or can I sub a pipe wrench ?

Thanks again boys ! Ill post back with progress

 

Why would they list a different yolk. The 1500s only came with one rear axle. Anyway the breaker bar might work, but the whole point of using an impact as usually they are on there pretty good

 

Do you have a pick & pay salvage yard in your area? If so, you can go there and pull yourself off a good used yoke real cheap. If not, you can also find them on eBay much cheaper than a local parts store - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yukon-Gear-...ty!23060!US!-1

 

I have never marked driveshafts by position. Unless it was a two-piece shaft, and I was separating the two pieces.

There are adapters to get 1/4 inch up to half inch.... Probably need two.... (1/4 to 3/8ths, and 3/8ths to 1/2) It's a pain..... but, you want the repair to last.

There is always a chance. A lot depends on what tools you have available, how much room you have to play, and if you can get a second person to stand on the brake pedal for ya, while you are wrestling with the nut. If you are forced to use the two-wrench method, make sure the one that you have holding the yoke itself, is long enough to hit the ground while you are reefing on the nut.

 

Thanks Fellas !!
@Atomic Dog The nearest pick and pay is 2 hours away. I was strongly considering it, especially since I could easily pick up other tidbits that the truck could use. However I am now leaning more towards ordering it online. Its a tough call, but a few things weigh in to the decision to order online over the pick n pay. First, the 2 hour drive (each way) is over 3 mountain passes, which are all prone to closing at any time of day during winter months. 4 hours of drive time alone is enough to make one consider other options. Second, I am very concerned about the difficulty of removing that pinion shaft nut, Especially considering I will be working alone. Even if it is possible for one person to pull this off it would likely take a good bit of time and will be very physically demanding. If I was still looking at paying 250, just for the yoke alone, it wouldnt even be a question. I would be heading off for adventure. However, I have found it online for 130 delivered. That price vs. the drive and pull time seems like a reasonable trade off. Also Its been snowing the past few days here and is in the forecast for the next 12 days, not to mention temperatures are between single digits and low teens most days. I did check ebay, but did not see the correct part for sale.

I braved the cold, snow and wind for a few yesterday. I managed to lower the driveshaft support bearing, but did not pull the assembly from the extension housing that goes into the transfer case. I was worried that I needed to mark it. After reading Hey You's post , I will proceed to remove the assembly and bring the entire rig into my apartment to swap the U joint in the warmth. I called a local shop just to see what they would charge to swap out the u joint from the loose drive shaft. They quoted $65, which seemed a bit too much to me.If it was $40 I would consider it, But for that price I would rather use that wretched tool from the parts store again. LOL ..Its like a wrestling match to get the joints out with that thing !

@Hey You Thanks, Now I just gotta hunt down the wrench and adapters. I will try to tackle that pinion shaft nut with my 3/4" breaker bar. Im gonna need to buy a socket to fit that nut, it looks like 1 1/4" . Like I said I will prolly use the floor jack handle slid over the breaker bar to attempt breaking it loose. I currently have the tires on the ground. Im not a big guy, I can get under the truck pretty easily without it being jacked up. I figured it would be much easier to get that nut off with the tires on the ground. It does not leave me a whole lot of space to work, but all I need to do is get that nut loose. I am hoping if I can get the tool that holds the yolk from the auto store, like you mention, I am hoping to be able to sort of wedge it against something while I attempt to turn the nut. Thats the plan at least...

 

I use two bricks and a big hammer to change u-joints. Set the 'cross' on the bricks, so the shaft/joint is supported there, make sure you have all the keepers removed from the other arms of the joint, and then hammer down on the weld point, where the part that holds the joint, is welded to the shaft. Couple sharp blows will usually pop the caps right out. Then just roll it over, and do the same thing on the other side.

Doing that on your apartment floor is HIGHLY likely to annoy the neighbors though.

 

Interesting approach sir. Probably not going to try that method.
I just got back from the auto store. Bad News is that they dont sell or rent the tool to hold the yolk. I might try a pipe wrench with a extender bar over it. I really dont want to have to buy one of those also. They also didnt have the u joint (7260) in stock. They ordered it for tomorrow, but were supposed to get like 30 inches of snow tonight and parts have to come over the passes from denver. It would be some kind of miracle if they dont close the passes. They do sell an inch per lb torque wrench for $20, which I didnt buy yet. I foresee needing to use 3 adapters !! Since I just bought a 1 1/4" socket for my 3/4" breaker bar, I will need to go from 1/4" to 3/4". I also bought the pinion shaft oil seal. Ran me $15. Now I just gotta see if I have a seal driver that fits this, I do still have the driver tool since I did my front axle seals a few years back. Tomorrow is payday so I will be able to order the yolk. Now I just gotta manage getting the old one out !