95 Ram 1500 Rear Driveshaft u Joint blowout repercussions
#31
I personally don't have one but thought about buying one. I don't believe any stores anymore because when I bought my axle u joint it was to big. They said it was right. Had to grind the ears down to get it to fit. Now I have to buy a whole new axle to get it right. Maybe I should start my own parts company
#32
I personally don't have one but thought about buying one. I don't believe any stores anymore because when I bought my axle u joint it was to big. They said it was right. Had to grind the ears down to get it to fit. Now I have to buy a whole new axle to get it right. Maybe I should start my own parts company
#34
I am strongly considering buying the ryobi 1/2. Says it puts out 300 lbs. Should be enough to get that nut off...I think ? Mostly considering going that route since I already have a Ryobi 18v and charger. Priced at 140. Not too bad, but wasnt planning on dropping that kind of money on a tool at the moment. HOWEVER I can see justifying it. I do wrench quite a bit, between my truck and boat , and my wifes car it would probaly see a fair amount of use.
I did buy the u joint but I am not sure its the correct one. These guys havent done me wrong before but the yolk Im buying (yukon 41001) specifies joint # 7260. This one is a Spicer 5-1309x . Ill investigate this further
I did buy the u joint but I am not sure its the correct one. These guys havent done me wrong before but the yolk Im buying (yukon 41001) specifies joint # 7260. This one is a Spicer 5-1309x . Ill investigate this further
That 5-1309X converts to #7290 (https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c13...de_c_clip.html), so they gave you the wrong one. This: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p465_dana_spicer_5_3228x_u_joint_7260_series_greas e_fitting_in_ca.html should be correct. Is the old u-joint on the driveshaft also 7260?
If there is no rust at the yoke splines, it should come out just by pulling.
#35
Harbor Freight Earthquake XT is suppose to be good. A YouTuber took it apart and it seemed that it's made in the same plant as Snap On and Milwaukee impact guns.
#36
I use their spray guns and love them. I bought the middle line (they are purple). They came out with a Pro line
#37
I have 18 volt Ryobi impact, because I already had a Ryobi drill so it made sense to buy it. However, as I'm used to work with air tools, 1/2" to 1" impacts, Ryobi feels kind of sluggish. It does have good power for what I bought it, lug nuts (as it's pain to manually change tires twice a day on a 8 lug axles when I go offroading. Those old Creepy Crawlers are far from highway tires). But I've noticed that if I over torque a lug nut, even with full charge Ryobi struggles to open it. So the pinion nut...not sure about it. Maybe it works just fine. But it is absolutely necessary that you have a correct socket, no adapters what so ever! All the connections between the impact and socket eat power, tighter the nut the less goes to the socket. And use the impact sockets, not the chromed regular as they flex and eventually break.
That 5-1309X converts to #7290 (https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c13...de_c_clip.html), so they gave you the wrong one. This: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p465_dana_spicer_5_3228x_u_joint_7260_series_greas e_fitting_in_ca.html should be correct. Is the old u-joint on the driveshaft also 7260?
If there is no rust at the yoke splines, it should come out just by pulling.
That 5-1309X converts to #7290 (https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c13...de_c_clip.html), so they gave you the wrong one. This: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p465_dana_spicer_5_3228x_u_joint_7260_series_greas e_fitting_in_ca.html should be correct. Is the old u-joint on the driveshaft also 7260?
If there is no rust at the yoke splines, it should come out just by pulling.
Interesting what you posted about the joint part #. since I installed it a few minutes ago ! The dimensions looked exactly the same. Im happy to have that part done so hopefully I dont need to take it out again. I have not ordered the yolk yet because I figured if I spent the money on the tool (impact wrench) I would have no problem getting a yoke out of the pull and pay.
Now Im looking at the driveshaft support bearing. I replaced it 4 years ago, but the rubber around the top is ripped. The bearing itself sounds fine, its the rubber that holds the bearing that is damaged. Not sure if its necessary yet.
#38
Thanks Buddy ! I appreciate the info. So I went and bought the Ryobi this morning. Found a odd box that was packaged with battery and charger for 100, weird since the exact same tool alone was priced at 140 ?! The box looked like it had been previously opened. The unit had a bit of grease on it and the battery was fully charged so Im guessing it was a return. Im hoping to give it shot tomorrow. If it doesnt work I will return it and let them know it had already been opened, as it was sold as "brand new". I definitely will be using the correct impact socket when I attempt.
Interesting what you posted about the joint part #. since I installed it a few minutes ago ! The dimensions looked exactly the same. Im happy to have that part done so hopefully I dont need to take it out again. I have not ordered the yolk yet because I figured if I spent the money on the tool (impact wrench) I would have no problem getting a yoke out of the pull and pay.
Now Im looking at the driveshaft support bearing. I replaced it 4 years ago, but the rubber around the top is ripped. The bearing itself sounds fine, its the rubber that holds the bearing that is damaged. Not sure if its necessary yet.
Interesting what you posted about the joint part #. since I installed it a few minutes ago ! The dimensions looked exactly the same. Im happy to have that part done so hopefully I dont need to take it out again. I have not ordered the yolk yet because I figured if I spent the money on the tool (impact wrench) I would have no problem getting a yoke out of the pull and pay.
Now Im looking at the driveshaft support bearing. I replaced it 4 years ago, but the rubber around the top is ripped. The bearing itself sounds fine, its the rubber that holds the bearing that is damaged. Not sure if its necessary yet.