The manual I have states primary resistance numbers as 0.53-0.56 ohms. I long time ago I tested the original packs trying to find a misfire and I got a readings from 1.2-1.6 on all terminals. I replaced them both with packs from Standard Motor Products( a brand I think is reliable). I tested these new packs when I received them and got the same ohms readings as the originals. I went ahead and replaced them anyway. Not much change was noted. When I tested the secondary numbers on the old and the new, they were right in the middle of range, which makes me believe my volt-meter is good(also tested good on battery voltage). I've been chasing a misfire for the longest time that doesn't set a code. Checked over all vacuum/lines and not finding anything.

I don't normally ask for request from people, but wondering if any of you had time, could put a test on your packs and let me know what kind of readings you are getting. I have a feeling this is where the problem may be coming from and want to replace them. I'm also wonder if anyone knows what brand is dependable for this truck being the oem is not available and from the looks of it, these packs intercross with other dodge vehicles.

I find it suspicious that my replacement packs read the same as my old, and am wondering if the ohm range stated in the manual ids even accurate.

Thanks!

 

Meant to add that when I put a vacuum gauge on the engine, the needle flutters a blur back and forth about 1 hg". Ignition ?

 

A pronounced repeated drop is typically valves.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post3404349
This is the little gizmo I use for checking the V-10. Slide it under the boot, set the boot back, use a test light to ground the wire while the engine is running. Shows weak cylinders, and weak spark if any.



As it turns out, those DUI ScreaminDemon coil packs seem to work pretty well. Don't throw any money at your problem until you find the source of the misfire, especially on the advice of the forum parrots.

 

I like your idea of hooking up a jumper. Would have liked to and should have done the same with my fuel injectors while I had it apart. I do have new wires on it. I had the valve covers off a while back and did notice a clump of sludge built up outside of one of the valve springs. Just cleaned it up. Nothing on the rockers seemed abnormal and I never get smoke out the pipe or any kind of oil consumption. Also had new timing chain just installed which has helped with mpgs.
The misfire is really only felt at idle but I know its effecting in the pedal as well . Like HeyYou has said, these engines run so smooth the ecu can hardly detect what's wrong.
I wish I could drive one of these things new and see what they really feel like lol.

I looked up the screaming. demon packs and they don't show them being compatible with the truck. Is there something to that?

 

Are you saying the vacuum gauge is fluttering at idle?

 

I had a dead miss on mine. (plug wire burnt in half. That cylinder was NOT firing....) and the PCM never set a code for it...... Makes finding a miss really interesting.

 

I can't speak for DavisUnified. The problem for me was as a '95 pre OBDII, my coil connectors/wiring would not hook up. I just checked the pinout and wiring diagram, then changed the wiring. If you read to the top of that forum post I linked you to, that guy was having a problem with a '95 and DUI coil packs, I believe that no one could seem to fix. It was then decided that maybe the packs weren't compatible somehow. I don't like to guess, but maybe he had weak wiring or something, and in fact the rise time(current) was limited, I don't know. If they tell you it will not work, then you are on your own. My experience is good, as is Zach's over on the 488Magnum website.
Davis told me that the (bad ***) plug wire kit they sell for Vipers would work, not so. Viper coils mounted on the firewall in '95 or whichever year's wires I ordered, never as far as I know on the valve covers, my mistake.
They run pretty smooth is right, thank Lamborghini for the oddball V-10 firing sequence. I bought a spare engine/tranny along with a bunch of parts from a friend in PHX. He bought the truck at Copart, drove it a bit before parting it out, said it ran fine. Broken rocker arm was what I found when I opened it up. That old man was as honest as the day is long, I believed him.
I am running about .496 of lift with a regrind cam, not a smooth as before. Sounds better I think, loud at start up though, nice. My friend across the street is a sheriff's deputy, he said my truck is "a bit loud", I believe him too. Neighbor' dog hates it about as much as I hate his dumb a**.
I am certain the valves on these trucks can stick a bit, as I am certain the engine harness is weak when it ages. I have to rewire the ASD/injector/coil circuits this next day's off to fix a shorted ground that holds one of my injectors open, floods my engine. Check my other posts for picture of the crap wiring I am talking about.
I am serious, the forum (idiot) parrots will spend your money throwing their (unneeded) recommended parts at this from 1500 mi. away. Their interest in your situation will run out about the time your money does. Make sure your trouble is not mechanical or wiring before you buy. That spark trick I showed you will demonstrate weak spark and holes that don't produce power. Do a compression check, then you can use the same bit of gear to do a simple blow by test for valves and rings. You fixed the timing chain. Basic mechanics, it's what you'll use to figure it out after the PCM tells you what you already know, you have a problem. Does not sound to me like you have a really big problem, you'll figure it out if you have to, good luck, Mike.

 

Us "forum parrots" are working with limited knowledge of the issue, and only what the poster tells us. I'm sorry we can't all be gifted with the know all knowledge you posses forgive us oh wise one

 

So I confirmed the primary circuit specs from the manuals provided in here and they are the same as what my source says. Since I couldn't find the Mopar packs online I called the dealer who said they are still available, but have been put under a different part number. 56029098ab and 56032521ac. Either one or both of them appear to be the same ones used on the early Vipers. The cross reference of these things online is all over the place. Want to replace both, but don't know how soon that will be. Will let you know what happens.

@Moparfanatic21 Yes, the needle sits where it should at idle (forgot the number off top of my head), but vibrates 1"hg each way of normal. I have my doubts about it being worn valve guides. Doesn't smoke out the back and spark plugs look good. Compressing also checked out good.

 

That sounds like worn valve guides.... You won't necessarily see any smoke from them. These engines burn really clean, and the cat also cleans things up a bit. My old 360 would suck down a quart of oil every 150 miles...... which you would expect would make the truck look like a mosquito fogger.... But, it didn't...... only time I got smoke was at large throttle openings.