Hello, I’m new to the forum. I also believe this needs to be moved to 2nd Gen Ram. I’ve extensively read other threads about various issues and common issues. I could not figure out how to add a signature.. I also apologize in advance for the length of the post!

I just purchased a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500, it has a 5.9L motor and an automatic transmission. It has about 191,000 miles on it. This is my first truck.

When I purchased the truck “it was receiving no spark”, the seller said he had checked everything over and all the signs pointed to a failed PCM. It’s missing the entire exhaust minus the manifolds. Many of the vacuum lines are missing, and a plethora of sensors and connections are disconnected.

So after getting the vehicle towed home, I changed out the Crank Position sensor with one from the dealership and now it’s got spark... BUT, it’s backfiring out of cylinder one. And nothing out of the rest. I reversed the order of the spark plug wires, thinking the distributor maybe 180 out.

With the order of the spark plug wires reversed, it now starts and runs like crap.

Plug a scanner into the OBDII port and received the following:

P0118 - Engine Temp Sensor Circuit Input High

P0753 - Shift Solenoid “A” Electrical

The weather up here got too crummy to go out and adjust the distributor position, So I took to the forums to see different reasons why the truck may idle poorly, besides the distributor being 180 out. One of the users here (can’t remember which one) mentioned checking down inside the intake for oil, as a cause may be the plenum gasket. The next morning, I went out, removed my throttle body and was surprised at the large pool of oil in the back of my intake. So I went down to O’reillys and got a Monroe Gasket set.

I set the engine to TDC and got to work. Later, that afternoon with no hang ups. The distributor perfectly exposed. I rotated the distributor 180 back in and buttoned the engine back up. I reset the PCM, and fired the truck up. It ran much better but idled without popping or backfiring between 800 and 3200 rpms up and down. I ran back to O’Reillys and got A standard ignition Idle Air Control Valve and Throttle Position sensor. I slapped them on there. Reset the computer again. Now it idles between 900-1200. Success! Or so I thought. I gently give it gas, it reaches 1500, drops down goes back to 1500 and drops down. It will pop and backfire maybe a handful of times. But no matter how much gas I give it. The same thing. Up and down, up and down.

With the truck throwing the code for the shift solenoid, I haven’t attempted to move it much. I run it through the gears slowly to see how the engine reacts in each. Not much of a difference.

I plug my scanner in and I get:

P0753 - Shift Solenoid “A”

P1763 - Governor Pressure Sensor

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temp

P0713 - TCM detecting temperature too high

(Have not addresses the above yet)

P1391 - CMP or CKP Signal Intermittent Condition

I started removing grounds and making the surfaces better for contacts, I have gone to work for the night and figured that I would see if anyone on the forums would be able to offer any insight here.

The reason the above has not been addressed yet, is because in one of the threads, a member suggested Heavy Duty Borg Warner Transmission sensors to replace them with and they will be in tomorrow morning. The O2 sensors also arrive in the Am and an entire flow master exhaust with catalytic converter Friday morning.

This Morning I replaced the governor pressure solenoid and sensor inside of my transmission pan. As well as the overdrive and lockup assembly, by a recommendation from one of the users here (HeyYou). The transmission fluid came out a nice red color, there was a little bit of slivering sludge on the magnet with no chunks of metal. While I was in there I did a band adjustment filled up with adjusting the band on the front drivers side of the unit also.

I cleared the codes and reset the pcm again. I put 2 qts in the transmission. Started the vehicle, and finished filling the atf.

I threw it in reverse and away she went. (About 10ft) I slapped it in drive and the motor really really tried to get it to go. Without revving my truck with no exhaust a couple thousand Rpms. I just put it in 1st and it started moving at around 2k. All the codes previously mentioned are still present.

While I was in the pan, I didn’t have time to read ohms or volts as I had to go to work.

Another thought, while I was underneath the truck I located my O2 sensor connector and right next to it is a thick black connector, maybe twice the size of O2 connector. Maybe it’s the upstream? I’m not sure, it’s just dangling there. I can try to snap a picture in the morning!
I also forgot to mention that it squeaks in drive and reverse now!

Any ideas and help will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance, and I apologize that the post is so long!

 

First: Download the service manual for your truck from here.

Second: Go thru the procedure to set initial fuel sync. Its the Distributor R&R procedure for your engine. This is critical.

Third: Since your are going to be doing the plenum repair, also do the timing chain and gears. (double roller set please, manufacturer of your choice) With the mileage on your engine, odds are very good that the current chain is stretched WAY out. (and it's only six more bolts to get to it, since you are pulling the intake anyway.) REPLACE the intake manifold bolts. Get shorter bolts for the plenum pan itself as well, or, cut the nipples off the end of the existing bolts. Use GOOD quality gaskets. (Fel-Pro?)

With the intake off, it is never going to be easier to replace the cap/rotor/wires. New plugs would be good as well. (Copper plugs please, skip the rare-earth fellers, these trucks don't like 'em.)

Get the engine running good first. Then start working on the other stuff.

 

Turning the distributor without a scan tool is a horrible idea. It isn't like the old cars where that adjusts timing, it actually controls fuel sync and has to be set using a scan tool. As HeyYou said the service manual will get you close.

 

Thank you for the manual!

As far as turning the distributor, I removed it from the engine and rotated it 180 and then dropped it back in. It was literally backwards. I forgot to add those details last night.

But when I look under the cap everything lines up like the manual shows in the diagrams. I’ll check it tomorrow morning when I get off work. I unfortunately did not get a chance to dunk around with it. And last note the intake and plenum gaskets were Dorman, not Monroe. For some reason I got them mixed.

I changed the spark plugs with copper ones too. During one of the repairs

 

Dorman doesn't have a really good rep as far as quality goes...... Spend the money on better gaskets, and avoid having to do this job again in the future.

 

Did you replace the timing chain? The fuel sync needs to be set while a scanner is hooked up. Setting it by the mark in the distributor gets it close enough to run so it can be set with a scanner. I think you want to stay close to 4 degrees advanced.

 

So I ended up going back in and changing the timing set, and all of the gaskets with Felpro. I got one of those aluminum plenum plates with new bolts. After all was said and done, the truck runs. Maybe a little better, but still the same. It will rev and bog down and rev and bog down. After all is said and done. It’s now throwing P0340 for the Camshaft position sensor and P0207 for Fuel injector 7 Circuit. I acquired a brand new moose Cam Position sensor from a closing dealership new, very cheaply. Put it in, still have the same code.

 

Need to check all he wiring for the sensor, and the contacts at the PCM.

Try swapping 5 and 7 injectors, and see if the problem moves with the injector.

 

Took Injectors off to swap, the injector in question was completely covered in white hard gunk. Couldn’t get it free, so I replaced it. No more misfire.

The contacts and wiring looks good.

 

An easy fix.

Wonder what the white gunk was......