5.2 rebuild kits
#1
5.2 rebuild kits
I’m intending to do a full rebuild on both my 46RE and my 5.2L engine on my 97 ram 1500.
ive searched high and low for threads on rebuild kits but nothing definitive.
i DONT want to buy a new motor I want to yank mine out and rebuild it myself. Summit racing is basically sold out and I’ve seen a few kits here and there.
im wondering who here has done a full rebuild on this engine and what kits they recommend other than summit since they are sold out.
I want to rebuild it right and make this truck last me until my son is old enough to pass it down.
does anyone have any quality suggestions?
ive searched high and low for threads on rebuild kits but nothing definitive.
i DONT want to buy a new motor I want to yank mine out and rebuild it myself. Summit racing is basically sold out and I’ve seen a few kits here and there.
im wondering who here has done a full rebuild on this engine and what kits they recommend other than summit since they are sold out.
I want to rebuild it right and make this truck last me until my son is old enough to pass it down.
does anyone have any quality suggestions?
#2
I suppose the hot ticket would be yank it, tear it down, and see what it needs. Get a full fel-pro gasket set, clevite bearing set, and see what the block needs along the lines of machining. (I *think* some parts store will rent the measuring tools you need to check your block, at least, most of it. Given they are rental tools though, I can't make any claims as to their accuracy....)
Also, with the reputation the stock heads have, I wouldn't bother doing anything at all with the stock fellers. Just pick up a GOOD set of NEW casting heads. Odessa, or Clearwater cylinder head both sell 'em for a decent price. (same company, essentially) The new castings have thicker decks, and are a lot less prone to cracking.
For the rest, just depends on what you have to replace, and what machine work needs to be done. See if you need to bore it out, or just hone it, is the crank bore straight? Decks level? Etc. If you don't have to drive it every day, makes life a lot easier, as this method will have it down for the count for several weeks, (if not months....) depending on how much it needs. Now, if you considered bumping displacement to the 5.9........ this would be the time. Pick up a rebuildable core, and just do the exact same thing. The truck is still useful, you aren't in a rush, so, if things take a while, you aren't suffering without your truck. When it's done, you get a nice bump in power, that you will most certainly feel. Of course, going to the larger displacement would require a reflash of your PCM, but, its not an absolute requirement to get it running. (this is something the dealership should be able to do for you. Call around and ask the various service departments if they will.)
Also, with the reputation the stock heads have, I wouldn't bother doing anything at all with the stock fellers. Just pick up a GOOD set of NEW casting heads. Odessa, or Clearwater cylinder head both sell 'em for a decent price. (same company, essentially) The new castings have thicker decks, and are a lot less prone to cracking.
For the rest, just depends on what you have to replace, and what machine work needs to be done. See if you need to bore it out, or just hone it, is the crank bore straight? Decks level? Etc. If you don't have to drive it every day, makes life a lot easier, as this method will have it down for the count for several weeks, (if not months....) depending on how much it needs. Now, if you considered bumping displacement to the 5.9........ this would be the time. Pick up a rebuildable core, and just do the exact same thing. The truck is still useful, you aren't in a rush, so, if things take a while, you aren't suffering without your truck. When it's done, you get a nice bump in power, that you will most certainly feel. Of course, going to the larger displacement would require a reflash of your PCM, but, its not an absolute requirement to get it running. (this is something the dealership should be able to do for you. Call around and ask the various service departments if they will.)
#3
I suppose the hot ticket would be yank it, tear it down, and see what it needs. Get a full fel-pro gasket set, clevite bearing set, and see what the block needs along the lines of machining. (I *think* some parts store will rent the measuring tools you need to check your block, at least, most of it. Given they are rental tools though, I can't make any claims as to their accuracy....)
Also, with the reputation the stock heads have, I wouldn't bother doing anything at all with the stock fellers. Just pick up a GOOD set of NEW casting heads. Odessa, or Clearwater cylinder head both sell 'em for a decent price. (same company, essentially) The new castings have thicker decks, and are a lot less prone to cracking.
For the rest, just depends on what you have to replace, and what machine work needs to be done. See if you need to bore it out, or just hone it, is the crank bore straight? Decks level? Etc. If you don't have to drive it every day, makes life a lot easier, as this method will have it down for the count for several weeks, (if not months....) depending on how much it needs. Now, if you considered bumping displacement to the 5.9........ this would be the time. Pick up a rebuildable core, and just do the exact same thing. The truck is still useful, you aren't in a rush, so, if things take a while, you aren't suffering without your truck. When it's done, you get a nice bump in power, that you will most certainly feel. Of course, going to the larger displacement would require a reflash of your PCM, but, its not an absolute requirement to get it running. (this is something the dealership should be able to do for you. Call around and ask the various service departments if they will.)
Also, with the reputation the stock heads have, I wouldn't bother doing anything at all with the stock fellers. Just pick up a GOOD set of NEW casting heads. Odessa, or Clearwater cylinder head both sell 'em for a decent price. (same company, essentially) The new castings have thicker decks, and are a lot less prone to cracking.
For the rest, just depends on what you have to replace, and what machine work needs to be done. See if you need to bore it out, or just hone it, is the crank bore straight? Decks level? Etc. If you don't have to drive it every day, makes life a lot easier, as this method will have it down for the count for several weeks, (if not months....) depending on how much it needs. Now, if you considered bumping displacement to the 5.9........ this would be the time. Pick up a rebuildable core, and just do the exact same thing. The truck is still useful, you aren't in a rush, so, if things take a while, you aren't suffering without your truck. When it's done, you get a nice bump in power, that you will most certainly feel. Of course, going to the larger displacement would require a reflash of your PCM, but, its not an absolute requirement to get it running. (this is something the dealership should be able to do for you. Call around and ask the various service departments if they will.)
ill never complain about a larger engine I just don’t want buy one new I want to hands on build it myself and take my time just like I plan to do with the tranny
#4
#5
You always have the best advice!
#6
Rebuilds cost the same for either motor. most parts will interchange, except for the engine internals. (and even some of those will.....) They even use the same heads. On the 97 trucks, the PCM, and other modules, don't care about VIN mismatch, so, if you are having trouble finding someone to flash your PCM for the 5.9, just grab the PCM out of the donor truck. They can be ordered online for around 250 as well. (don't forget the core charge though.....)
#7
And I love spending other peoples money.
Rebuilds cost the same for either motor. most parts will interchange, except for the engine internals. (and even some of those will.....) They even use the same heads. On the 97 trucks, the PCM, and other modules, don't care about VIN mismatch, so, if you are having trouble finding someone to flash your PCM for the 5.9, just grab the PCM out of the donor truck. They can be ordered online for around 250 as well. (don't forget the core charge though.....)
Rebuilds cost the same for either motor. most parts will interchange, except for the engine internals. (and even some of those will.....) They even use the same heads. On the 97 trucks, the PCM, and other modules, don't care about VIN mismatch, so, if you are having trouble finding someone to flash your PCM for the 5.9, just grab the PCM out of the donor truck. They can be ordered online for around 250 as well. (don't forget the core charge though.....)
ok that’s good to know I’ve swapped aN ECU in a Lexus before and it was a nightmare because of that exact issue vin mismatch. So any 2nd gen PCU should work then. I’m shopping for 5.9s locally as we speak
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#8
Only PCM's from 96 or 97 model year trucks will work. 95 and older are OBDI, and won't even plug in, 98 and newer, WAY too much changed to make it work, without a WHOLE lot of additional work. So, stick with the 96-97. (and the correct engine/trans combo as well, I don't think weight rating of the truck matters.)
#9
JMO, but I believe you need to disassemble the motor first, and then decide on a kit, if at all.....
Using myself as an example. I purchased a running 185000 mile motor and I believe the seller felt it was in good shape.
Well thinking I would just do a kit, rods, mains, rings, oil pump, timing chain, etc. and put it back together....
Started by checking the rods and mains..... Found the crank grooved and needing turned.
Not a big deal.... found a reman. crank and bearings at Advance auto for $155.00 exchange.
Went ahead and did cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil pump, timing set etc.
Had the shortblock back together
Moving on to heads..... found them cracked, and ordered replacements.....
All of this to say,
1. No way of knowing what you need in a kit before the tear down and inspection.
2. In my case what I needed was not available in a kit, especially without getting stuff I dont need.
3. Individual pricing at Advance Auto, Rockauto, etc came in cheaper buying each at whoever had the best prices. vs kit prices
Just something to consider.
Using myself as an example. I purchased a running 185000 mile motor and I believe the seller felt it was in good shape.
Well thinking I would just do a kit, rods, mains, rings, oil pump, timing chain, etc. and put it back together....
Started by checking the rods and mains..... Found the crank grooved and needing turned.
Not a big deal.... found a reman. crank and bearings at Advance auto for $155.00 exchange.
Went ahead and did cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil pump, timing set etc.
Had the shortblock back together
Moving on to heads..... found them cracked, and ordered replacements.....
All of this to say,
1. No way of knowing what you need in a kit before the tear down and inspection.
2. In my case what I needed was not available in a kit, especially without getting stuff I dont need.
3. Individual pricing at Advance Auto, Rockauto, etc came in cheaper buying each at whoever had the best prices. vs kit prices
Just something to consider.
#10
Great thread everyone. I'm in the same boat with my 2001 dodge, my 318 is in need of rebuilding. Most new iron heads I find online are pricey for what they are, I'm not paying $800-900 for iron heads (upgraded valve springs, bronze guides, larger valves), when you can get an aluminum head for $1200 (of course for a LA engine). I'm thinking about junk the dodge fuel injection system anyways and going another route. Would be nice to 350-400 HP (useable HP) out one of these old girls. I found a running 2001 360/46re for $500 (including the ecm), so the deals are out there.
Last edited by Mike Holmen; 08-21-2020 at 08:48 PM.