oh ok..
soo just cut the clamp and pull off hose and re use hose and part ill try to get from my local parts store..

for the emerg brake do i need that metal bracket inside the drum thats attached to the brake cable.. or can i just unhook that and leave it out..
as then i can just pop it out as i never used the emerg brake.. the 1 time i did other then certfication the cable snapped lol

as to replace the plate how much do they normally cost and i guess u gotta pull the shafts out as thats what it looks like to me..
bet i can do for now is jsut put the hardware in lol... i still waiting to get the 4x4 actuator from my other post its still in progress at amazon as its was the cheapest here in canada.. . was supposed to come before xmas and its still being prepared to ship amazon says lol

so removing that brake thing hopefully it slide off my luck siezed on there since everything else siezed ... if i could park the whole truck in a vat of rust remover be soooo great and then paint it before it rusted again lol

and merry christmas eve

 

Correct
I believe you too if we are thinking of the same thing. The cable unhooks from that.

About $150 and yes you pull the shafts out. Personally I would get rid of the cad they are problems especially in rust areas.

 

CAD is what again... ill take some more pics today.. as now i seem to be doing more work... soon i have a new truck i just slapping lipstick on a pig at this rate lmao

so ok i wont bother replace the Emerg brakes.. and whats 150 roughly? the cables or these plates? after all this i going to store truck indoors so it never gets wet... i lucky and that i can fix things because if i had to pay a garage i couldnt afford it

and merry christmas

and ill send more pics

 

CAD: Central Axle Disconnect. It's that lump on the front axle, passenger side, locks two piece axle together when you engage four wheel drive. Vacuum operated, and can be problematic.

 

ah ok cuz he said to get rid of if but when u live in canada u need 4x4 well on my property farm land i get ice and snow enough that i gotten 4x4 stuck i guess this truck doesnt have true 4x4 as i remember my father telling me or someone
if the Pass front and the Driver rear have 0 traction ur stuck

i think the rear end leaing somewhere was its wet if its the shaft from the drive shaft or the housing so id have to send pics
and that piece of metal broken off off the plate what does it do? keep the dirt out what part is looking rough on it and does it stop it from the brakes working?

 

You can still have 4wd and get rid of the cad. You can permanently lock it in. And then you only engage the transfer case.

 

Yeah, the t-case sends power to both ends of the truck, but, due to the way differentials work, if you have a tire with low traction on each axle, you are stuck. Need some variety of limited slip differentials front and rear, THEN you have TRUE 4 wheel drive. Gotta be careful putting some form of locker/LSD in the front though, as it can cause some interesting steering issues on really low-traction surfaces. (the truck tends to want to go straight, regardless of what you are doing with the steering wheel.) I have the factory limited slip in the rear of my truck, so, "3" wheel drive. I haven't gotten it stuck yet.... but, the season is still young. Good tires make a lotta difference too.

 

so he mentioned get rid of cad so ud lock it in place.. but if you lock it.. you can never turn fully as i noticed if i have in 4 x4 mode it fights me and i been told when your in 4x4 u cant turn the steering wheel fully or ur break the universals as when i feel ithe wheels or so kicking back i turn back the wheel a bit..

you mentioned a "3" wheel drive what does that mean.. i know the posy lock on my tractor if i press the button even if you turn the wheels ur going straight.. i like that when your stuck but its a pain to get back out after lol..

so is there true 4x4 like i realize i guess All wheel drive vehicles have true 4x4 as all 4 wheels are driving.. but do pickups or dodges have true where you press a button and they all lock in ..so you cant spin.. i know like my truck i got stuck on ice in my driveway where all 4 wheels are spinning or so hung up on a little snow.. but we get ice here really bad at times.. where you goto bed park your car or truck or tractor in the morning you find its down the driveway from the freezing rain or so..
are the older vehicles where you lock the hubs from outside those true 4x4 that way all 4 wheels are locked?

 

so i finally got some more pics..
so couple pics are of each side of the back plate.. you said i need to change them? and i watched video on a dakota to remote they take the back off take the bolt out and then they push and a clip falls and they drag out the shaft... then showed there is a seal and a bearing at the end.. do you have to change the seal and the bearing the shaft sits on?
also i noticed its wet under neath.. and i guess the seal for the shaft is leaking.. can you replace the seal without having to take everything out.. or how you that.. i guess its leaking too much?? ,, i guess the big gear has to come out.. as i watched another video guy talked about he did some adjustments for the rear end for slipage i dont wanna take apart and then its out of sync etc if there is an adjustment that u need special tools for
as i dont have speciality tools depending on what needs to be done?

 

Looks like your pinion seal is starting to weep a bit. If it isn't leaving drops on the ground, leave it for now.

You truck technically is a four wheel drive. All else being equal. The trouble comes when one wheel has very low traction, like ice, mud, snow, etc. The way the differential works, it is a true 50/50 torque split. However, if it only takes 2 ft/lbs to spin the tire with low traction, that's all the torque you get on the tire that DOES have traction, and that simply isn't enough to even consider moving the truck. That's where traction adding devices come in, limited slip, or lockers. Limited slip is exactly that, the wheels can still slip, but, clutches in the differential will transmit more power to both wheels, so, both tires on the axle are trying to move the truck. Lockers do exactly that, they lock the sides together, so each side gets equal power, and that is whatever the engine is sending to it. There is NO slippage between the two side, so, they tend to push the truck in a straight line. If you have low traction on the front.... well, you are already aware of what happens then.

So, with some form of traction adder in the back, but, an open differential in the front, you effectively have 3 wheel drive... as on the rear, if you have one tire with low traction in front, and it only takes a couple ft/lbs to spin it..... same story as the back, the loose tire spins, the traction tire doesn't get enough power to make a difference in moving the truck. Putting a traction adder in the front though, can be interesting. As the two sides are locked together, or only allowed a limited amount of slip, the truck REALLY wants to just go in a straight line. Especially under power. (when lockers tend to stay locked, and limited slip diffs don't wanna slip.) ease off the gas, so the front unlocks/allows some slip, and you can steer again. And that's why automatic lockers aren't generally suggested for front axles. Selectable lockers like the ARB, or Ox locker, where you can turn it on and off at a whim, work REALLY well. Traction when you need it, steering easy when max traction isn't required.

Thorsen style 'gear driven' limited slip diffs work GREAT in the front axle though. No clutches, no locker, just power to both axles, and if one axle wants to spin faster than the axle that is actually making use of the power, that's fine. So, in a corner, the outside tire is going to spin a bit faster, as it travels a longer line than the inside tire, so the inside tire still gets useful power, but, the outside tire isn't limited to the speed of the inside tire. So, good traction, and you can still turn. Hence REAL 4 wheel drive.