so is the Thorsen style the best 4x4 you can get minus awd drive like electric vehicles.. i guess all the 4x4s have pros and cons
learn something new every day.. so is it true the on my truck here if your turn the wheel too much while in 4x4 ur break the universals? thats what i was told.. never turn like you normally do

and on this truck whats the proper procedure to shove in 4x4 i know if i in park or neutral if i too slow the damn gears grinding i notice... and then i need to drive forward and backs to link or disengage it.. was what i was told

so that seal in the front thats leaking not sure its been wet for a while i dont see puddle on the floor but i didnt check.. i guessing i can remave the seal without having to drop the rear end i saw video and they were able to date it out from the front.. so i could wait till summer.. unless i need to take out the sides to change those plates your mention and if i add new oil again the seal will leak wont it because the oil is higher then the seal?

 

The binding you feel in 4x4 on tight turns is normal. The front and rear axles are locked together, no slipping whatsoever, and the fronts travel a different path than the rears. Different distance... tighter the turn, the greater the difference, so, you get the front bouncing around as tires bind, then slip on whatever surface you are on. On dry pavement, it's a good way to break things, on low traction surfaces, it's just an annoyance. Remember, the u-joints aren't doing anything different in 2wd, than they are in 4wd. They are always turning, the only difference is, if they are powered, or not. So no, turning really sharp in 4x4 on low traction surfaces won't break anything. On pavement. Yep. something will give. Usually, it's just a tire or two slipping.... but, if you have enough traction...... things break.

AWD systems will have a differential between front and rear axles. (in the t-case) On the high-zoot ones, it's a form of limited slip. (viscous coupling, or some such.) What's in the axles, depends on how much money you spend. Most just have open differentials, or maybe some variety of LSD in the rear. The really expensive systems will have some variety of LSD in all three locations. (front and rear axles, and transfer case.) So of the latest systems simulate a limited slip by applying the brake on the wheel that is slipping, to transfer power to the wheel that is not. (or, to at least equalize their speed......)

Ah, the wonders of modern technology.

 

ah ok ya i notice it the sharpness when i was pulling a boat or a trailer on my property so then i back off a bit.. ya technology is great when it works but when its broken ur swearing at it... especiall when i try to put it in gear the 4x4
wonder what 20 yrs from now what kinda 4x4 would be like then with technology always changiong...

so if i tackling to change these 2 plates what kinda oil do i need or gasket maker? and do i change the side seals oh and i forgot to re take pic of brake part i wanna know if i can just unhook it and remove it as i not gonna re install the emerg cable

 

80W90 if you don't do a lot of hauling/towing, 75W140 if you do. I just use RTV ultra black. Some folks use the gasket. Some folks do both. Just a matter of personal preference.

If you are going to pull the axles, change the seals. If the bearings aren't making any noise, I would just re-use them.

If it is just the edge of the backing plate that is disintegrating, and not the load-bearing part.... I might just skip it.

 

oh ok and no i dont do any towing really maybe the odd time usually what ever i can get in the box is what i do so the different oils matter then?
ya i seen some videos use gray stuff.. now is that gray the moto seal for engine crank cases i never know cuz there Ultra Black RTV but then there is Black PRememium like i never frigin know there is too many and ones a sealant and ones a gasket maker like too many frigin options

ya i dont think any noise in the rear end and no noise just the leaking is from that front seal...

ok ill re take pics tommorow i gonna take the brakes off and change the hardware kit then you can tell me if i really need to change the plates if i dont need to i ll slap it together.. is that ring to keep the dirt out or something??

and will any work in this cold weather of -6C or so

and which is better the can version or the tube or the small aliuminn tooth paste container types as i dont use it enough and i find the the tooth paste continer kinda harden in the damn thing cuz it can be a year before i use it again

 

oh i took off the vent hose for the brake line.. the pipe was filled with rust powder... i googled it .. i guess it threads in
could that be reason why the seal is leakin in the front because no vent was working?

also here the pics of the plate kinda closer... u can tell me if it needs replacing also i took the pic of the hand brake leave bracket thingy you wanna call it..
wanted to know if i can just remove that whole thing out leave it off the brake or u need it on the brake.. but i just pull out the cable not gonna replace the cable but unable to do the brake with cable locked in seems like its in the brake mode

also what would be wrong i had that one side on the brakes the pass side i was able to remove the 2 springs with the pin by turning it by hand didnt need any pressure at all using a tool.. so it was loose like a fart
maybe it had wrong spring kits? orginally on the truck? i did buy new spring kits both kind of hardware kits and i didnt do that filing of the one clip wasnt sure if i should or not that to get it on the brake shoe post. one slipped on the other didnt

 

Just go with the 80W90 then.

If there is no noise, don't worry about the bearings.

I hate working out in the cold. I was lookin' at doing a front wheel bearing on an AWD van, on the side of the road, in -5* F temps.... I called a tow truck, had it hauled to a shop, and paid someone else to do it.... (even though I couldn't afford it. )

I usually get the tubes, but, I have a cool little handle that makes squeezing the stuff out easier. And yeah, I don't use 'em enough either, and when I need it again, the tube is usually completely solidified......

I use the ultra black, or ultra gray. Lay down a 1/4 inch bead, let it skin over, then put the parts together. In really cold temps, don't know if that will work for you though. Might go with just the gasket.....

 

ah ok ya i got you beat on wheel wasnt a wheel bearing was the front tire off 97 caravan 12 yrs ago my son was 2 in it i broke down 2 kms from my house -30C or so with windchill -40C to -45C i had hazards on no one helped i was changing front tire and this was like a sunday night
he wanted to help when kids want to help.. told him i be ok.. i struggled changing it and find out the spare tire not the right tire.. it went on but it was so tight it was fused to the caliper so when i got it together after almost an hour changing a tire she was scraping.. i was temped prior to drive 2km on a fla but had to drive over a bridge and such.. and i had diffucultys getting the tire off the van after as it was stuck on i was jsut glad to get home.. oh was i frozen i was happy to be home and not one person stopped to help.. i always belive if i see someone broke down i try to help... but then again you got crazys out there u see in movies so its hard

i use to work on changing parts with my father or an engine outside mid january and we use the stove burners to warm up our hands

so there isnt a good gasket maker that doesnt solifiy
and whats better the Gasketmaker or the Silcone sealant.. when i read them they all seem to be the same i think tjhhey just change the color
but i can get the gray or black i just tired of it hardening lol.. as i seen the one i liked comes in a aresole can like my delectric grease..

so from my pics do i need ot change those plates i dunno if its that bad? its still bolted lol... and that vent bolt do u think from that popped that front seal? and i dont think you can get a gasket for the back pan i only seen so far you gotta make it yourself.
and about the spings to hold the brakes since loose u think they wrong u should see them in the one picture still attach but like i mentioned in my last post i twisted it loose by hand..
and if i can remove that emerg brake lever or do i need ot leave it on the brake.. as i not replacing the cables.. pics are above..

 

Did you post new pics? If you did, they aren't showing.

Yep, I try and stop for folks on the side of the road. There are a lot of areas where there is just nothing around for a LOT further than I would wanna walk in crappy weather...... So, I will at least stop and make sure they have someone coming. Folks have done the same for me as well, so, I feel that I am just 'returning the favor'.

 

ya post number #36 with pics.. i know u missed another post previous back to it must be because i replied while u might been replying so reason i brough up the question.. i think u missed a few posts.. i had but it should show up least for me #36 and i got the pics of the rust in the vent tube i didnt try taking off yet not sure if its going to break off etc..

but i had wrote ""oh i took off the vent hose for the brake line.. the pipe was filled with rust powder... i googled it .. i guess it threads in
could that be reason why the seal is leakin in the front because no vent was working?

also here the pics of the plate kinda closer... u can tell me if it needs replacing also i took the pic of the hand brake leave bracket thingy you wanna call it..
wanted to know if i can just remove that whole thing out leave it off the brake or u need it on the brake.. but i just pull out the cable not gonna replace the cable but unable to do the brake with cable locked in seems like its in the brake mode

also what would be wrong i had that one side on the brakes the pass side i was able to remove the 2 springs with the pin by turning it by hand didnt need any pressure at all using a tool.. so it was loose like a fart
maybe it had wrong spring kits? orginally on the truck? i did buy new spring kits both kind of hardware kits and i didnt do that filing of the one clip wasnt sure if i should or not that to get it on the brake shoe post. one slipped on the other didnt""



ya like 2 yrs ago i broke down my car alternator blew 1 hour ride home and i was in middle of no where.. i managed to call a tow truck with CAA but because i was in middle or no where and my place different location
it took longer they couldnt get a tow truck to bother to get me.. waited 2 hours for one but i was 15 min out of the major town figured no problems they said 20 min for tow truck they didnt get one from the major town but one from 35 min drive away oh was a headache.. was cold as i tried to drive but no headlights no nothing someone called the police on me guess they though i was casing a property... and after the 2 hours and he showed up to talk to me. questioning the tow truck showed up to proove i wasnt casing out nothing broke down with my mother and it was cold always winter when this **** happens... and policemen talked to the tow truck and i was ok.. but frig eh get told i casing a property or so just broke down....

but i try to help if i can stop safetly