My V10 performance top end "swap"
#111
#112
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sunny ****ing Nevada, Rockies to B.C.
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
35 Posts
Yeah, adjustability for Magnums only via different pushrod length. Pedestal stamped rockers are plenty good for the RPM this engine sees, pedestal is the weak link. Magnums are 1.6 ratio, old shaft style 440, 1.5, Gen I and II Viper 1.6, Gen III up cast steel, 1.7. 440s make 500 HP on stamped steel factory units if you read some of what the competition engine builders are using.
Last edited by 69_XS29L; 07-29-2021 at 09:43 AM.
#113
When it comes to rockers what I seem to have found is under 6000k rpm the roller tips don't do much. The only performance gain is if you up the ratio. There isn't a measurable amount of power loss from friction with the stamped steel.
Well I went looking and I do have a spare cam gear to mess with. I was reading the install instructions and that is 0-8 degrees at the cam, not crank. So a 6 degree bushing is 12 degrees at the crank, which would land me on a 106 centerline, which is what is specified on the cam card.
Well I went looking and I do have a spare cam gear to mess with. I was reading the install instructions and that is 0-8 degrees at the cam, not crank. So a 6 degree bushing is 12 degrees at the crank, which would land me on a 106 centerline, which is what is specified on the cam card.
Last edited by adukart; 07-29-2021 at 03:21 PM.
#115
#116
Reread the past couple days and saw your pushing it health-wise.
Take care of yourself dude. No sense having a kickass V10 if you're looking at the flowers from the wrong end.
On the other hand, thank you for keeping us posted on everything you find and do to get it running right.
Take care of yourself dude. No sense having a kickass V10 if you're looking at the flowers from the wrong end.
On the other hand, thank you for keeping us posted on everything you find and do to get it running right.
On the topic of these offest bushings. I just happened to have a cam and gear set from a chevy 396 sitting around we just swapped out of my dads chevelle. So I'll try to describe this as concisely as I can but a better write up is coming. Both the the V10 and BBC cam use a .250 dowel. The chevy uses a 3 bolt system to mount the gear where as the V10 uses a single bolt. The overall radius of the BBC cam gear is larger and the pin is located farther from the center of the gear. The V10 pin is close the the center. If you do the math you find that the V10 cam gear dowel is 1.2 times closer to the center than the BBC. Why is that important? The closer the pin is to the center magnifies the changes at the outer edge, in this case 1.2 times for the same amount of change compared to the BBC which these were designed for. So you need to take the rated degrees times 1.2. Example the 6 degree bushing on the BBC is actually a 7.2 degree bushing. For every 1 degree on the cam is 2 degrees on the crank. So that 6 degree bushing is actually 14.4 degrees on the crank. Now this is all calculation what was it measured in the truck. Just short of 15 degrees however this was on a different cam gear so it may have been closer had it been the original cam gear. All I know is now I am only 3 degrees advanced on the centerline but the marks are now lined up so the fuel sync should be fine now. I'm waiting on a new timing gasket to see how it runs, finger crossed this is it finally. I took plenty of photos and have but have a little left to do with the bushing.
#117
Alright this is going to be a big post. First the prep of the cam gear for the offset bushing.
I used this epoxy with a 1/4" dowel pin to turn the slot into a hole for drilling.
I used some grease to keep the epoxy from sticking to the bolt and pin.
After using a drill press and 13/32 bit next put the gear on then the bushing either advanced or retarded. You need to do this for correct dowel alignment. As you can see the new hole is really close to the center.
When I installed the bushing I used some cylinder sleeve retaining compound as well as the used a punch to put some dimples in it like the instructions say, however as I explain the the video following the next photo that bushing cannot rotate in the hole. Here is what it looks like installed. ********VERY IMPORTANT I REMOVED THE REMAINING EPOXY BEFORE FINAL INSTALL SINCE IT IS FRAGILE AND THIN*******************
Video discussing fuel sync on the V10:
Video of start up with correct fuel sync. It did not go well......................
So after the video I hooked up my cheap scan tool to monitor ignition timing since for the first few seconds it runs good then start popping. After start up it sits at 9-10 degrees and runs smooth, then all of a sudden the computer starts throwing timing at it. 15 to 23 degrees and everything in between. Just bouncing, but what I notices is the pops were bigger when there was more advance being displayed. Gonna see if this can be tuned for. I am getting 13in Hg though at idle.
I used this epoxy with a 1/4" dowel pin to turn the slot into a hole for drilling.
I used some grease to keep the epoxy from sticking to the bolt and pin.
After using a drill press and 13/32 bit next put the gear on then the bushing either advanced or retarded. You need to do this for correct dowel alignment. As you can see the new hole is really close to the center.
When I installed the bushing I used some cylinder sleeve retaining compound as well as the used a punch to put some dimples in it like the instructions say, however as I explain the the video following the next photo that bushing cannot rotate in the hole. Here is what it looks like installed. ********VERY IMPORTANT I REMOVED THE REMAINING EPOXY BEFORE FINAL INSTALL SINCE IT IS FRAGILE AND THIN*******************
Video discussing fuel sync on the V10:
Video of start up with correct fuel sync. It did not go well......................
So after the video I hooked up my cheap scan tool to monitor ignition timing since for the first few seconds it runs good then start popping. After start up it sits at 9-10 degrees and runs smooth, then all of a sudden the computer starts throwing timing at it. 15 to 23 degrees and everything in between. Just bouncing, but what I notices is the pops were bigger when there was more advance being displayed. Gonna see if this can be tuned for. I am getting 13in Hg though at idle.
Last edited by adukart; 08-05-2021 at 10:31 PM.
#118
#120
I do have a fair amount of overlap. Its a 110lsa, I was expecting 11ish but it is on a 104 centerline so I think the advance is helping that. More vacuum is fine with me, it will help my braking with these 35s. Although if me and the tuner can't find a solution to this popping and timing thing the stock cam is going back in.
Last edited by adukart; 08-06-2021 at 04:31 PM.