I'm trying to find out what values I should expect to find for my STEREO WIRING.
PLEASE HELP!
THANKS!

 

Which wires? For the most part, any wire should have zero resistance testing JUST the wire. Aside from that, it depends on just what it is you are testing for. Maybe if you told us what the actual problem was, we might be a bit more help.

 

He posted this in the first gen section.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...94-1500-a.html

 

Should be so low it is difficult to accurately measure without special equipment. To calculate the value requires knowing the wire gauge and its length. If you can measure the resistance with a low cost DMM, well the wire or the meter probably ought to be replaced. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/c...re-d_1429.html

 

So basically the accessory 20a fuse pops EVERY time I connect the stock (AND aftermarket) stereo unit. Maybe a short at the fuse block or just wiring. But I have replaced for new. I think it's deeper than the end line for the stereo.

 

So fuse is fine until you hook the power wire to either of 2 stereos? What gives you the idea either of the stereos works? Blowing fuses would be the expected result from internal problems such as blown amplifier output stages or power supply problems. Either way it's broken parts that needs fixed or replaced. I suppose you could also be miswiring things which could blow fuses even if the stereos work fine.

 

Usually after market units have their own fuse. And you should have constant power and key on. I know some have protection diodes in them in case you hook the power leads up backwards.

 

I have actually used FOUR different infinity stereos, all oem. The fuse popping started with no warning.
There's a short SOMEWHERE, but I REALLY don't want to take apart the WHOLE dashboard if at all possible!
Any ideas where to focus my investigation?

 

Not saying you are wrong. There very well could be a short somewhere in the wiring harness. But the thing that sounds funny is if the short were in the wiring harness then why does the fuse only blow after you put the stereo in?. This may be due to some misunderstanding on my part but it could also be a clue about what is happening. Is there other hardware on that fuse, besides the stereo, such as an external amp, which could also be causing the short?

maybe start with taking an ohm meter and trying to narrow down the conditions which cause and remove the short.. For example: You know there is a short with the stereo installed verify that with the ohm meter.... the fuse goes from power to ground and so verify with the ohm meter that there really is a short under those conditions that would cause the fuse to blow..... Then pull the stereo and see if the short gets removed. if not then move onto other hardware on the same fuse...remove that and see if the short gets removed. etc etc. Narrow down by process of elimination.

 

I take you have the factory plugs cut off the stereo? The radio does not use the 20 amp "accessory" fuse! It has a dedicated fuse #7 witch is a 15 amp. This is for a 96 but the 94 may be the same. You can get a wiring diagram for your year here.