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R46h Rebuild

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Old Sep 26, 2021 | 05:17 PM
  #131  
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Do a dry/wet compression test. See what the numbers look like. I had a sticking valve, and one cylinder would intermittently have zero compression....... That makes it run a bit rough.

Or, try a cylinder balance test.

Get the engine up to operating temp, let it get to a stable idle, then, unplug the IAC motor. At that point, disable one cylinder at a time, (either pull the plug wire, or disconnect the injector) and pay attention to how much idle drops for each cylinder. If you have a cylinder or two that there is no noticeable drop, those are the problem children.
 

Last edited by HeyYou; Sep 26, 2021 at 05:19 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2021 | 05:34 PM
  #132  
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Okay...gotcha... will do that tomorrow. TYVM
 
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Old Sep 26, 2021 | 05:46 PM
  #133  
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One more thought since it always smells like it's running rich should I go ahead and replace the IAC and the O2 sensor and where does the O2 sensor plug in at by the way into the IC?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2021 | 05:59 PM
  #134  
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I wouldn't replace anything until you find what the problem is. O2 sensor plugs in on top of the trans....... Yeah, it's fun to get to.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2021 | 06:18 PM
  #135  
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Oh great... Up there with the crank sensor... Yeah for the record I'm blind in my left eye makes it hard... I'll get it though... I got that distributor so nothing but a step. I'll get back on it in the morning and see what I can find out thank you again.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2021 | 09:38 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by Letsfixit
Oh great... Up there with the crank sensor... Yeah for the record I'm blind in my left eye makes it hard... I'll get it though... I got that distributor so nothing but a step. I'll get back on it in the morning and see what I can find out thank you again.
Doesn't matter, you can't see it anyway. I had major problems getting that one, and I had my truck on a lift.....
 
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 07:49 PM
  #137  
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Okay... basically it needs head work. Which I'm NOT gonna do with it getting winter here. SO, my Transmission Rebuilder said JUST SNIP THE LOC-UP WIRE ON THE 3 PRONG PLUG THAT ACTUATES THAT. He was NOT sure which wire w/o looking it up for that model. 94 ram 1500 5.2 . He said I could STILL get 1st thru 4th gears, w/o the converter locking up. WHICH IS FINE. Rural FM roads, lake roads, all 2 lane, rarely get over 55 mph. anyway. If I use the OD BUTTON no 4th gear and 3rd gear is killing me on fuel, and finishing off the engine. QUESTION.. WHICH WIRE DO I SNIP FOR THIS? AND DOES THE ABOVE INFORMATION SOUND CORRECT?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2021 | 07:16 AM
  #138  
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No. I wouldn't do that. If you disable lockup, but leave O/D, you will smoke the trans in pretty short order. O/D builds a LOT of heat, as will the torque converter if it isn't locked.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2021 | 09:10 AM
  #139  
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Okay then... I guess I need to talk to the guy about the warranty. He emailed me this morning and told me what wire to snip. (The REAR one). But coming off the solenoids & thru the trans case in a round hole, I don't remember a FIXED direction for the connecter to come up through there for there to be a front or rear wire it could be that they go side to side. For instance they left wiring right wire. Anyway I'm going to get with him and let him know what's going on before I cut anything thank you so much my brother.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2021 | 09:52 AM
  #140  
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Here's my issue... last month I drove 305 miles. Very little over 55mph..and the farthest was probably 16 miles. So... I'VE GOT TO CUT THAT LOCK UP WIRE... With OD OFF it shifts WAY TO HARD...AND CONSTANTLY UP & DOWN...BANG BANG BANG...(not to mention the fuel) with OD ON IT'S CONSTANTLY SHAKING THE DASH OFF..(an everything else)... I've got my tranny manual, I THINK ive got the wire I want. I'm looking for confirmation from a SEASONED PROFESSIONAL however. 4th gear is the perfect gear for my roads here. I'll rebuild the motor this spring.
 
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