Ok, my 169K dodge ram sport 5.9 stalls after about 30 minutes of running. I have replaced the CPS and Distributor pick up coil. I cleaned all the grounds and it still stalls. I drove it yesterday and after a good 30 minutes it drove fine, so I parked for 30 minutes and then after another ten minutes of driving it stalled. Like everyone else I get the dash crash and a "No Bus" with a check engine light, but no codes. I left it by the road and after about an hour came back and it restarted as it always does. It only ran about 300 yards and died again. This time we went and got my other truck to tow it and upon returning in about 20 minutes it restarted but we towed it anyway and on the way it stalled under tow. So it seems like the longer the cool down the longer it runs before stalling. I have an appointment with a guy to trouble shoot this, but would like some input here to provide. Has anyone ever figured this out? Please help.

 

A sensor is failing when hot and bringing down the 5v reference wire. It's the wire the computer uses to see what the sensors are doing

 

Possibly, but the OP already replaced two of the suspects. The other two are the TPS and the transmission solenoid assembly. The latter is easy to check, just disconnect the connector at the transmission.

It's definitely temperature related, could also be the PCM itself or power to it. Easy test is if a scan tool can talk to the PCM right after the engine died.

 

So that crank sensor is a real pain in the A. I dropped it in but it went backwards and hung up = I had to bend the tranny tube out of the way to get it out and then the wires on the new unit were scarred so I resoldered them and put it in and thought I had it figured out, but it did not of course work so then I replaced the ignition sensor in the distributor and the same result. I cant imagine the crank sensor being solderd as a problem.

 

TPS was replaced a few years back and that was a quick fix for that issue. Never turned back on that one. Never heard about the tranny being a player. Obviously heat causes this

 

I would be leaning toward the PCM itself.....

 

Does it stall letting off the gas(idle) or is it dying while under throttle? Also how old and what shape is your battery?

 

The governor pressure sensor has a 5V supply connection from the PCM just like some other sensors. If the 5V supply is indeed the issue that's another place to look for a short.

 

I dropped it off at a guy that I hear is good at trouble shooting these things. Hope he does not just come back as say the PCM. I'LL feedback when I know more

 

Ok, the guy said "it was a communication problem" and I need a new PCM. He wants $1,000. Oh well niot sure he did anything to check why the PCM was bad. Anyway I see I can get a VIN matched PCM for about $225 or I can send in my old one and have it checked and then refurbished or replaced for $225. Thoughts on what to do? BTW they want $600 for the PCM and $300 to program in the Vin.