Rebuilt ABS Controller
I plan on doing a full bleed on all four. Hopefully I get the new module by Saturday but if not, It will be here by Tuesday. Either way, Should be back up and going soon. My biggest concern is the module is shutting off or constricting fluid to the rear. The right rear emergency brake cable also was frozen so it has been disconnected so I also either need to get it freed up or replaced. I can't remember the last time it was used but we did find out it was stuck in the on position so I don't know how long it was like this. To be hinest, with the time it sat. I'm surprised there isn't more things that will show up to be fixed. Sitting like that is hard on any truck or car. Thanks for the advice. Well taken.
If you only have RWAL, changing that feller probably isn't going to fix anything. The proportioning valve has a safety valve in it, so, if one brake circuit or the other fails, a piston moves to seal it off. Bleeding your brakes can trip the valve, and then you have to do hoop jumping to get it to reset.
I *think* the dump valve is separate? Isn't it??
I *think* the dump valve is separate? Isn't it??
If you only have RWAL, changing that feller probably isn't going to fix anything. The proportioning valve has a safety valve in it, so, if one brake circuit or the other fails, a piston moves to seal it off. Bleeding your brakes can trip the valve, and then you have to do hoop jumping to get it to reset.
I *think* the dump valve is separate? Isn't it??
I *think* the dump valve is separate? Isn't it??
I believe RWAL (Rear Wheel Anti-Lock) is rear wheel ABS only and not 4 wheel ABS. Sounds like you have only rear wheel ABS if the line coming off the ABS module is only in-line with the rear brakes.
That makes sense. Just never heard the term lol. Yes it's a rear brake issue. Thinking about pulling some line loose and blowing them out to make sure they are clear. I just have to find someone to help. Daughter on a cruise with bf and his family. Doing a full system clean and bleed would ensure everything is working as intended.
I have a question. Is there a possibility that since my rear rear cylinder was leaking and brakes were completely gone down to the the point that it killed my drums that the proportional valve may have thought a line went and cut off the fluid to the rear? If so, how could you reset that valve? I know it's a safety deal so you don't loose brakes but cutting off fluid. I am staring to wonder if that is why I am not getting any fluid back to either side. I'm just curious.
That's quite possible. See if you can find a spot on the brake valve where there may be a rubber cap. If so, firmly press in that area to free/reset the valve. The service manual may have more information regarding the reset process. You can download the service manual for your year truck from here - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-manuals.html
That's quite possible. See if you can find a spot on the brake valve where there may be a rubber cap. If so, firmly press in that area to free/reset the valve. The service manual may have more information regarding the reset process. You can download the service manual for your year truck from here - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-manuals.html
Just bleed the brakes again. If you aren't getting fluid to the rear, crack open one of the FRONT bleeders. The valve is sensitive to pressure differences, opening the front will prompt it to want to send fluid to the rear.











