Looking for advice on fuel injectors for a 96 Dodge Ram 2500 V10. I don't know at what mileage I should be looking at new injector but I only have 100k miles on the truck. Then should I go with OEM or another brand like Bosch? I have read that the fuel rails collect some or a lot of crap (being the fuel filter is lacking in filtering) and if I was to change out the injector what would be the best way to clean the fuel rails

 

Why do you want to change them? They are generally good for well over 100K miles.... I have over 150K on mine, and still the original injectors.

 

As I stated, I'm not sure when they should be changed out. I mainly use this truck to tow my travel trailer after I retired. I'm very **** about maintenance warding off any and all future failures, I change all fluids including brake fluid and coolant on a regular basis, and new tires every 5-7 years ( I have yet to wear out a set of tires). I have also changed out the supine belt several times and all hoses including the rubber brake lines to stainless reinforced brake lines. The last thing I want is to have problems on the road during a 5000 or more mile trip.

I did ask what brand of injectors and at what point the injectors should be replaced.

 

Injectors get replaced when they actually fail. There really is no good reason to replace them until then. Well, maybe if you have 250K on the set..... but, if they aren't causing any issues...... leave 'em in there. I regularly see these trucks (with the 8.0) with well over 200K miles, still on the original injectors.

But, if you have money burning a hole in your pocket:

I believe OE are Bosch.... Original part number was 53031571, however, they have been discontinued from chrysler...... and all I can find are remans, or 'oe equivalent' stuff. Might be worthwhile checking with the performance shops that actually sell mopar stuff, see what they have available.

 

Thank you for your information, yeah in my research what I consider the good/best injectors are Bosch. On eBay there is a set of 10 for like $60 new off brand, I wouldn't touch them with a 10' pole. The new Bosch would be around $250 for a set of 10.

 

Yeah, you certainly get what you pay for.... I try and avoid the cheap china junk, but, it's getting to the point that its ALL cheap china junk.

 

I have another question.

Until I purchased a travel trailer I didn't realize how lacking my brakes were lacking on my 96 2500 V10 and did find that my rear shoes look almost new, this was at somewhere around 50k miles.

I started to research and I might have found some of the answers in these forms for the rear brake cylinders. I put 3500 brake cylinders on the rear which helped, also there was one more step bigger cylinder, chevy that was too much, under lite braking on gravel the rears would lock up so I stayed with the 3500 cylinders.

I still thing braking is lacking when it comes to the front, I have never locked up the front brakes under very heavy braking. I have been told by a couple of mechanics the reason for this is because of the weight of the V10.
Could you confirm this?

I have looked for better rotors and calipers but there are no upgrades to be had. I have tried a 3500 master cylinder with no help that had the larger tank but switched back to the 2500 tank because the 3500 tank leaked. I made sure I don't have air anywhere in the system by bleeding the system with a power bleeder. Come to find out the 3500 and 2500 master cylinder are the same other than the reservoir.

I have purchased another brake bleeder that hooks up to the wheel cylinders and calipers forcing brake fluid back into the reservoir. I intend to use this the next time I change out the brake fluid after first using the power bleeder in another couple of years.

Getting that truck and travel trail stopped in a panic stop is a challenge. Yeah, the trailer does have electric brakes, new everything, a kit with hubs, shoes, backing plate, and magnets. I turn the gain up when on the HWY but have to turn it down in cities because at low speed the trailer tires will lock up, but not a problem at higher speeds.

I have been in several panic stops while on trips and that is no fun, each time I got stopped before wiping out everything. I do leave plenty of room between me and the vehicle in front of me.

 

I might consider going thru the front brakes, resurfacing the rotors (or replacing them...), and then go with some HIGH quality pads. That will help some.... not sure how much. The 96 still has the single piston calipers, and there really isn't much in the way of upgrades... basically the same brakes as the 3500's... Make sure the rears are adjusted up properly, as the 'self adjusters' on these aren't the most reliable......

Glazed rotors will seriously compromise brake performance......

 

I know my rotors aren't glazed, I have turned the rotors 3 times, I have new rotors for the next pad replacement, and have been using the best semi metallic pads available, but the rear shoes might need to be adjusted, I will check that when it gets warmer and before we head out on a trip. BTW my 2500 is 2WD. Yep, 2500 and 3500 will take the same front pads but checking pads at O'Reilly's some of the 3500 pads aren't tapper on the ends. If I buy the 3500 untapped pads I will grind a bit off the end to keep away from chatter but not nearly as much as tapped ones are.

You could give me a 4x4 gas or 4x4 diesel and I would turn around and sell to get a gas 2wd. I'm hoping my 2500 will last to the point where I have to stop driving. I would cry if it got wrecked and totaled out. I just don't want a newer truck, this one fits the bill for me in every way.

What I have found out the tapper is to stop the chatter, but there is more surface to the rotor, and might get better braking.

I have put a Transgo shift kit in the tranny, ceramic headers, and two external tranny coolers with a thermostat so the tranny will get up to 160 degrees. Been thinking of having some head work done, cleaning up the intake ports, and opening the exhaust ports. Still thinking about a couple of fake cats and behind them something like glass pack mufflers. But still thinking about dual exhaust, the driver's side has way too many bends in it to get around the gas tank killing scavaging of the left bank. All that work and cost is all for not if I can't straighten out the left side exhaust then the noise of the glass packs when I'm on a hard hill pull with the trailer.

One thing I know I wasted my $$$ on, was a K&N cold intake, but I didn't pay full retail for it. I hate the filter and ended up wrapping it with filter foam soaked with filter oil. K&N filters will kill an engine by letting too much fine dirt pass through it, by the test I have seen. These filters are only for racing, period. There was a company that made a stock foam filter, I did say was but not anymore. I'm considering going back to the stock air intake setup. Today air filters have come a long way with flow and filtering.

 

I live in Michigan, on the corner of two dirt roads, that aren't maintained/plowed as well as they should be, so, for me, 4x4 is a must. If you don't need it though, no point carrying around all that extra weight.

I wouldn't bother doing anything to the stock heads, they are notorious for cracking. Odessa/Clearwater cylinder head (theoretically two different companies, but, they aren't....) sell new casting heads, with thicker decks, which are MUCH less prone to cracking. Used to be able to get 'em for around 600 a pair, fully assembled... likely more money for 'em now though. There is also the EQ Monster magnums. They are also better castings, which flow better than stock, and are available with bigger valves... but, for a pulling motor, I would stick with the stock size.

Use the 3500 pads, and get a can of the spray on "Disk Brake Quiet", be generous with the application when you change pads, and that should reduce any brake noise/chatter.

As for exhaust, do you have shorties, or long tubes? Pacesetter makes some long-tube headers, and also have an 'off road' Y-pipe. 3" diameter pipe. (single three inch will be good for ya.) they are 1 5/8ths tubes, so, good for low end grunt, and also available ceramic coated. You can cut the y-pipe, and install a cat if required. (magnaflow high flow cat?) Good low end torque, and whatever sound you want.

The stock air intake system IS a 'cold air' intake. Draws air from the fender on the passenger side. Flow is more than good enough for 99% of what you do. Sure, the aftermarket systems might flow somewhat better, but, that really only helps you in the higher RPM ranges, when the kegger intake does NOT help you. So, pretty much wasted money.

Edit: Ooops, no clue if Pacesetter makes longtubes for the 8.0......